Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Next morning at seven, I was seated in my caleche, anxious to reach
Cadiz. It was a curious scene that presented itself,--upwards of twenty
caleches were assembled, some from St. Lucar, some from Xeres, but the
greater number, with the steam-boat passengers who had arrived the same
morning, from Bonanza,--and all united for common security, and to take
advantage of the escort. We set off soon after seven, the caleches
following each other in a line, and five men armed with guns and sabres
on horseback, galloping to and fro; but generally two in front, two in
the rear, and one reconnoitring; and in this order we wound among the
wild hills that lie between St. Lucar and Port St. Mary. At a small
venta half way, all the travellers were obliged to stop, that the
caleches might not be too far separated from each other; and again
resuming close order, we continued our journey. It appears extraordinary
that an armed escort should be considered necessary on a short journey
like this,--every day taken by travellers from Seville and Cadiz; and
yet it seems improbable that the Steam-boat Company should put itself to
the expense of maintaining and paying five mounted and armed men, unless
they considered an escort absolutely necessary. The country between St.
Lucar and Port St. Mary is wild, and for the most part uncultivated;
some part of it is, however, under tillage; and in one field I noticed
no fewer than twenty-four ploughs at work, each with a pair of oxen. The
uncultivated land is covered with furze and aromatic plants; and the
aloe and prickly pear grow spontaneously in great luxuriance and
abundance. We arrived at Port St. Mary about mid-day, and immediately
encountered the scene of confusion invariably found wherever there is a
much frequented ferry. Scores of caleche-men, who wished us to go round
by land to Cadiz, vociferated their offers in our ears, swearing by all
the saints, that it was impossible to cross the bar; boatmen, in as
great numbers, swore, by their own peculiar saints, that there was no
necessity to go by land, and that they could carry us safely over the
bar: and tempted by the hope of dining in Cadiz, which I saw across the
bay, not a league distant, I entrusted myself to the boatmen. The
passage, till we crossed the bar, was tedious; but when this difficulty
was overcome, we bounded merrily over the waves. The city is extremely
imposing from the bay; it appears to stand upon an island, which it
entirely covers with an irregular line of white buildings and ramparts;
but upon looking more narrowly, a long, and almost invisible line is
seen to connect it with the main land. The wind blew fresh; and the bay
was animated by innumerable boats, scudding in every direction, looking,
with their great white sails, like enormous sea fowl cleaving the waves.
We dropped under the quay about two o’clock, and I immediately made my
way to the Posada Inglesa,--an hotel equalled by none that I had seen
since leaving England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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