Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
Some plaits are of one colour throughout, but are made with straws
that have been previously dyed. Generally speaking, especially for
straws, the effect is not so good as where the plait itself is dyed.
There are, of course, one or two exceptions where the fibre used is
very delicately plaitted into some loose design which would not retain
its crispness of outline under the weight of water in dyeing and the
necessary handling. Other plaits known as “Speckled,” must, from
their nature of mixed colours, be plaitted from dyed straws. Of these
there are coloured and natural, coloured and white, and mixtures of
various colours. The dyeing of straws follows in the main the dyeing
of plait, but the preparation is somewhat different. The straws, cut
into equal lengths, are tied up in bundles about 5 ins. in diameter,
and are carefully placed in the vat or copper in an upright position
with as little pressure as possible, and when dyed are dried still in
the bundle. At one time a new dyeing effect on straws was introduced,
which consisted of standing the bundles upright and allowing strong
dye to run through the “pipes.” This, of course, dyed the interior and
some parts of the exterior, which not touching another straw allowed
the dye to do its work. Water was then passed through the “pipes,”
and the result when dry was a pretty mottled effect. Another fancy
method of dyeing was the production of “Ombré” colours. This novelty,
introduced by the French dyers, consisted of two or more colours on
the same plait. It was done by means of a fine spraying machine, which
vaporized a powerful dye on to an already dyed piece of plait of some
lighter tint. Messrs. Lye & Sons brought out a novelty on straw plait,
particularly effective on the Japanese wide patterns, which produced
the same iridescent effect that is obtained on “shot” silk. This,
however, was bath-dyed and not sprayed. These various bases of double
tones were utilized to their undoing, for it was no uncommon sight to
see manufacturers of the lower grades of hats endeavouring to produce
multicoloured effects on chip plaits by pouring the prepared dye over
the plait from finely nozzled watering cans! The resultant crudeness
of such arrangements brought a beautiful thing into disfavour. The
shade requirements of to-day include many colours that are termed
“Pastel.” These are delicate, pale shades, and can be obtained only
by submitting straw plait to a bleaching process previous to dyeing,
but the finished article is a thing of extreme beauty, not only on the
question of colour, but in its intense purity and softness. A method
for dyeing plaits, which obtained considerable magnitude in Paris, but
has never been a favourite in Great Britain, is that known as “Cold
Dye.” It enjoyed only a small measure of success on straw, but on chip
and hemp braids very beautiful results have been achieved. In 1877
Mme. Deuxbouts, of Paris, was dyeing chip plaits in this manner, which
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account