Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture — John Shaqi
Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
The vats (which are made of wood) and the coppers are all furnished
with a steam perforated copper coil at the bottom. Over this at a
slight distance, so that the heated pipes cannot come into contact with
the plait, is laid a perforated tray, be it of wood or copper. The
plait is laid, as described above, on this tray, and when sufficiently
pressed down is covered with a perforated copper lid to prevent the
plait from rising above the surface of the dyebath. This is then
brought to the boil and continued for sufficient time, according to
the nature of the material and colour required, to ensure perfect
penetration and regularity. This time may vary from even less than
twenty minutes to several hours. When the desired shade is achieved,
which is proved by testing, the plait is lifted carefully from the dye
bath on to a crated topped carrier, similar to a funeral bier. Formerly
on arriving at the drying shed the plait was put on rods and thoroughly
shaken to cast off as much moisture as possible, and then hung in the
air so that the drying might not be too rapid and thus render the
plait brittle. Now the plan is to place the plait, when taken from the
copper, in a centrifugal wringer or “hydro-extractor,” which, revolving
at great speed, throws off all free moisture and leaves the plait
almost dry. Placed then in a chamber with large power-driven fans, the
drying process is most speedily completed.
Before dyeing, for easy handling, all plait is “strung.” Every piece of
plait is received either wound up in “sticks,” as they are technically
termed, or in some looped formation which allows a fine string to be
easily threaded through and tied in such a manner as to form a means
of either carrying the piece or of hanging it on a wooden rod. These
rods are made of convenient thicknesses and length to carry the plait
in the drying departments (be it in the room, or in the open air), when
suspended either in the former case on trestles mounted at suitable
distances, or in the latter on lines fixed to uprights and stretched
across the drying area. Each lot of plait for dyeing carries a numbered
wooden “tally,” the number corresponding with the dye ticket left in
the office or “giving out” room. When dry by means of these tallies,
the plait is collected into its original lot, and is carefully tied up
in suitably sized bundles. Some plaits receive, when dyed, a “finish”
of a glucose mixture which has two effects, it gives better gloss to
the material and it assists in preventing the colour coming off during
the manufacturing processes. These mixtures are all of a starchy or
farinaceous nature, in which some substance, say “farina” itself,
is dissolved in water, brought to a boil and rendered crystal in
appearance before being used for the finishing process.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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