Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada — John Shaqi
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The glimpses of street life are always entertaining, because
unconscious, while full of character. It may be a Creole court-yard, the
walls draped with vines, flowers blooming in bap-hazard disarray, and
a group of pretty girls sewing and chatting, and stabbing the passer-by
with a charmed glance. It may be a cotton team in the street, the mules,
the rollicking driver, the creaking cart. It may be a single figure, or
a group in the market or on the levee—a slender yellow girl sweeping up
the grains of rice, a colored gleaner recalling Ruth; an ancient darky
asleep, with mouth open, in his tipped-up two-wheeled cart, waiting for
a job; the “solid South,” in the shape of an immense “aunty” under a red
umbrella, standing and contemplating the river; the broad-faced women in
gay bandannas behind their cake-stands; a group of levee hands about
a rickety table, taking their noonday meal of pork and greens;
the blind-man, capable of sitting more patiently than an American
Congressman, with a dog trained to hold his basket for the pennies of
the charitable; the black stalwart vender of tin and iron utensils,
who totes in a basket, and piled on his head, and strung on his back,
a weight of over two hundred and fifty pounds; and negro women who walk
erect with baskets of clothes or enormous bundles balanced on their
heads, smiling and “jawing,” unconscious of their burdens. These are
the familiar figures of a street life as varied and picturesque as the
artist can desire.
New Orleans amuses itself in the winter with very good theatres, and
until recently has sustained an excellent French opera. It has all
the year round plenty of cafes chantants, gilded saloons, and
gambling-houses, and more than enough of the resorts upon which the
police are supposed to keep one blind eye. “Back of town,” towards
Lake Pontchartrain, there is much that is picturesque and blooming,
especially in the spring of the year—the charming gardens of the Jockey
Club, the City Park, the old duelling-ground with its superb oaks, and
the Bayou St. John with its idling fishing-boats, and the colored houses
and plantations along the banks—a piece of Holland wanting the Dutch
windmills. On a breezy day one may go far for a prettier sight than the
river-bank and esplanade at Carrollton, where the mighty coffee-colored
flood swirls by, where the vast steamers struggle and cough against the
stream, or swiftly go with it round the bend, leaving their trail of
smoke, and the delicate line of foliage against the sky on the far
opposite shore completes the outline of an exquisite landscape. Suburban
resorts much patronized, and reached by frequent trains, are the old
Spanish Fort and the West End of Lake Pontchartrain. The way lies
through cypress swamp and palmetto thickets, brilliant at certain
seasons with fleur-de-lis. At each of these resorts are restaurants,
dancing-halls, promenade-galleries, all on a large scale; boat-houses,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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