Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The next year, in the same month, I asked for her at the lodging.
She was not there. “You did not know,” said the woman then in
possession—“good God! her sister died four days ago, from want of food,
and madame has gone away back of town, nobody knows where. They told
nobody, they were so proud; none of their friends knew, or they would
have helped. They had no lodgers, and could not keep this place, and
took another opposite; but they were unlucky, and the sheriff came.”
I said that I was very sorry that I had not known; she might have been
helped. “No,” she replied, with considerable spirit; “she would have
accepted nothing; she would starve rather. So would I.” The woman
referred me to some well-known Creole families who knew madame, but I
was unable to find her hiding-place. I asked who madame was. “Oh, she
was a very nice woman, very respectable. Her father was Spanish, her
mother was an octoroon.”
One does not need to go into the past of New Orleans for the
picturesque; the streets have their peculiar physiognomy, and
“character” such as the artists delight to depict is the result of the
extraordinary mixture of races and the habit of out-door life. The long
summer, from April to November, with a heat continuous, though rarely so
excessive as it occasionally is in higher latitudes, determines the
mode of life and the structure of the houses, and gives a leisurely and
amiable tone to the aspect of people and streets which exists in few
other American cities. The French quarter is out of repair, and has the
air of being for rent; but in fact there is comparatively little change
in occupancy, Creole families being remarkably adhesive to localities.
The stranger who sees all over the French and the business parts of the
town the immense number of lodging-houses—some of them the most
stately old mansions—let largely by colored landladies, is likely to
underestimate the home life of this city. New Orleans soil is so wet
that the city is without cellars for storage, and its court-yards and
odd corners become catch-alls of broken furniture and other lumber. The
solid window-shutters, useful in the glare of the long summer, give a
blank appearance to the streets. This is relieved, however, by the
queer little Spanish houses, and by the endless variety of galleries
and balconies. In one part of the town the iron-work of the balconies is
cast, and uninteresting in its set patterns; in French-town much of
it is hand-made, exquisite in design, and gives to a street vista a
delicate lace-work appearance. I do not know any foreign town which
has on view so much exquisite wrought-iron work as the old part of
New Orleans. Besides the balconies, there are recessed galleries, old
dormer-windows, fantastic little nooks and corners, tricked out with
flower-pots and vines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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