Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The “Zauia” of Sid bel Abbas forms a sort of almshouses, and
food and money are distributed there to the poor. An entire quarter
of the city—the extreme north-west—belongs to the _zauia_, and
it owns enormous tracts of palm-groves and agricultural land in the
surrounding plain. These possessions have been offerings from the
faithful, or bequests at death, and in some cases purchases made with
the constant flow of money that pours into the coffers of the mosque.
Another almost equally holy spot is the shrine of Mulai Abdul Aziz,
which lies either in or just on the borders of the “Medina”
quarter. A very handsome building covers the tomb, like that
of the rival saint, gorgeously decorated, and full of lamps and
candlesticks of precious metals. But of all the treasures stored in
these sanctuaries, clocks are the most numerous. When this invention
began to penetrate into Morocco—that is to say, in comparatively
late years—they were naturally looked upon as the most valuable
and wonderful things, and a fashion promptly set in to bestow them
upon the ashes of the dead saints. Every one who could afford it
gave a clock, and often in talking of local saints I have heard
Moors say, “Ah! he was a saint indeed, God’s mercy upon him;
and there are four clocks in his tomb!” It is said that the
burial-place of Mulai Idris at Fez presents a bewildering scene of
clocks, great and small, half going, and all wrong. I myself have
had opportunities of visiting one or two tombs in Morocco, and have
listened, bewildered, to the ticking of fifty or sixty of these
much-reverenced presents. Most seem to be tall “grandfather”
clocks, made in England, and dating from about the end of the last
century. Some are remarkably fine, with silver dials, showing
the quarters of the moon, &c. Even to-day the natives adore the
great, loud, ticking horrors manufactured for the native market in
Algeria—monstrosities of gaudy decoration and painted wood—and no
good house is considered complete without one or more. I have dined
in houses at Fez where there have been six or seven in one room.
[Illustration: THE SÔK JUMMA-EL-FANAR, THE PRINCIPAL PLACE IN
MOROCCO CITY.]
None of the other mosques of Marakesh calls for much remark, though
those of Ibn Yusuf, El Mansur, and El Muiz are large, the former
possessing a very handsome, though more modern, minaret, rich in
green tiles. As is customary all through Morocco, no Christians
are allowed to enter the sanctuaries, and even whole districts,
_zauias_, are sacred. One or two streets near the tomb of Mulai
Abdul Aziz are crossed with chains, marking the boundary of town
and saintly property, and within these limits even the assassin
is safe from arrest, for they answer the purpose of marking the
boundary of the refuge. The result is that all the _zauias_ are
full of refugees of all classes, from political prisoners to the
pilferer of the stalls in the markets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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