Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Two large markets are held weekly, one outside the Bab (gate)
el Khamis—as its name implies, on Thursdays—and the other
within the city walls in the square of Jumma el fanar. Both collect
large crowds of the country-people, as well as the natives of the
town, and the trade is considerable in native produce. The more
picturesque of the two is without doubt that of the “Khamis,”
for the great open space that serves as the market-place is
surrounded on two sides by the palm-groves, and on the other two
by the long straight line of the city walls. A few cypress-trees
and a white-domed saint’s tomb add not a little to form a fit
background to the strange grouping of figures and animals that
are crowded together in the market. Here herds of oxen, cows, and
calves are for sale, tended by the long-robed Arabs from the plains;
there camels, goats, and sheep. Mules occupy a spot to themselves,
and one at a time is mounted by the auctioneer to show its paces;
while a professional rider gallops to and fro, shouting as he goes,
upon the various horses, for which he yells for bids. All classes
and kinds of people congregate in the market—from rich Shereefs,
accompanied by slaves, and riding great fat mules with crimson
saddles, to the ragged hungry soldier; from the timid Berber of the
Atlas peaks, in his black cloak, to the _gamin_ of the streets;
from the respectable grain-merchant to the most disreputable of
Jew money-lenders. Here, too, the shoesmith has his tents, and
women sell baskets and embroideries, pots and pans of earthenware,
and wooden dishes, embroidered _kuftans_ and woollen girdles. All
the city seems to adjourn of a Thursday morning to the great level
space outside the Bab el Khamis to buy and sell or look on.
[Illustration: _A Jewish Banker of Marakesh._]
The Jews, as in nearly all Moorish cities, possess a quarter to
themselves—the “Mellah,” or salted place. In Marakesh it lies
quite close to the “Kasba,” and almost adjoins the Sultan’s
palace. If anything this division of the town is dirtier than any
other, while the ever-present smell of _mahia_—the strong spirit
made in the place—adds a nauseating aroma to the many already
emitted by the offal and filth thrown out into the street. There
are many well-to-do Jews in Marakesh, and one or two possess nice
houses, scrupulously clean within, but with manure-heaps, several
feet in height, at the door-step—the refuse of the place, which
they merely throw there and leave to rot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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