Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Many attempts have been made to identify Ramleh with some ancient site.
Thus the learned Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela regarded it as the birthplace
of Samuel, while Christians have supposed it to be Arimathæa or Ramoth
Lehi. But, against all such views, the testimony of historians, both
Moslem and Christian, is decisive. They agree in representing Ramleh as
founded by the son of the Caliph ’Abd el Melik early in the eighth
century, after the destruction of Lydda. In Crusading history the town,
which was then walled, plays a conspicuous part, and under the early
successors of Saladin it rose to considerable importance; but the site,
which is, as its name indicates, “sandy,” is not a natural one for a
great city, and the water-supply is entirely artificial, from wells and
huge tanks having Cufic inscriptions on their sides. Picturesque as is
the scene, especially from among the palms on the east, Ramleh is
nevertheless a modern place, when compared with the high antiquity of
sites near to it.
In crossing Palestine at any point three districts are passed through,
each of which receives a distinctive name in the Bible and in Jewish
writings. First we cross the flat sea plain, in part sandy and barren,
scattered with the black tents or reed cabins of the small encampments
of Bedawin, a pastoral race gradually losing ground before the
peasantry; in part a cultivated and very rich corn land, with wretched
villages of mud perched on eminences whence the breeze is better felt.
To the new comer these hamlets, most of which represent sites older than
the time of Joshua, have a deserted appearance. The eye misses the
contrast between roof and wall, and the glazed windows and wooden doors
seen in Europe. The peasant hut in the lowlands of Palestine consists
merely of four walls of mud, with a roof of boughs covered also with
mud; hence the village, which consists of perhaps fifty or sixty such
cabins huddled together without plan or order, and gradually climbing
the slope so that the floor of one is level with the roof of another,
has an uniform grey colour only broken by the whitewashed dome of the
little chapel dedicated to the patron “Prophet” or Sheikh. In the plain
there are scarcely any springs, and the village is supplied as a rule by
cisterns and by a pond of stagnant rain-water banked round freshly every
year. The most conspicuous object outside is the huge rubbish-heap where
refuse of every kind is thrown. Savage mangy half-starved dogs keep
watch above, and annoy the stranger until boldly attacked in turn. They
belong to no one, are cared for by no one, and their only food appears
to be an occasional carcass of a donkey or bullock. It is said that they
eat mice and beetles when nothing else is to be found. All night they
vie with the jackal in their howls, and they are often really dangerous
when rearing their puppies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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