In the earlier inventories of church vestments no mention can be found
of satin; but this fine silk is spoken of among the various rich
bequests made to his cathedral at Exeter by bishop Grandison, about
1340; though later, and especially in the royal wardrobe accompts, it
is very commonly specified. Hence we may fairly assume that till the
fourteenth century satin was unknown in England; afterwards it met with
much favour. Flags were made of it. On board the stately ship in which
Beauchamp earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the sixth, sailed from
England to France, there were flying “three penons of satten,” besides
“sixteen standards of worsted entailed with a bear and a chain,” and
a great streamer of forty yards in length and eight yards in breadth,
with a great bear and griffin holding a ragged staff poudred full of
ragged staffs. Like other silken textiles, satin seems to have been in
some instances interwoven with flat gold thread: for example, Lincoln
had of the gift of one of its bishops eighteen copes of red tinsel
sattin with orphreys of gold.
Though not often, yet sometimes we read of a silken stuff called
_cadas_, _carda_, _carduus_, and used for inferior purposes. The
outside silk on the cocoon is of a poor quality compared with the
inner filaments, from which it is kept apart in reeling, and set aside
for other uses. We find mention of such cloths as belonging to the
cathedrals of Exeter and St. Paul’s in the thirteenth century. More
frequently, instead of being spun, it served as wadding in dress: on
the barons at the siege of Caerlaverock might be seen many a rich
gambeson garnished with silk, cadas, and cotton:
Meint riche gamboison guarni
De soi, de cadas e coton.
The quantity of card purchased for the royal wardrobe, in the year
1299, is set forth in the Liber quotidianus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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