_Camoca_, _camoka_, _camak_, as the name is differently written, was a
textile of which in England we hear nothing before the latter end of
the fourteenth century. No sooner did it make its appearance than this
camoca rose into great repute; the Church used it for her vestments,
and royalty employed it for dress as well as in adorning palaces,
especially in draping beds of state. In the year 1385, besides some
smaller articles, the royal chapel in Windsor castle had a whole set of
vestments and other ornaments for the altar, of white camoca; and our
princes must have arrayed themselves, on grand occasions, in the same
material; for Herod, in one of the Coventry mysteries--the adoration of
the Magi--is made to boast of himself: “In kyrtyl of cammaka kynge am I
cladde.” But it was in draping its state-beds that our ancient royalty
showed its affection for camoca. Edward the Black Prince bequeaths to
his confessor “a large bed of red camoca with our arms embroidered at
each corner,” and the prince’s mother leaves to another of her sons
“a bed of red camak.” Edward lord Despencer, in 1375, wills to his
wife “my great bed of blue camaka, with griffins, also another bed
of camaka, striped with white and black.” What may have been the real
texture of this stuff, thought so magnificent, we do not positively
know, but it was probably woven of fine camels’ hair and silk, and of
Asiatic workmanship.
From this mixed web we pass to another more precious, the _Cloth
of Tars_; which we presume to have been the forerunner of the now
celebrated cashmere, and together with silk made of the downy wool of
goats reared in several parts of Asia, but especially in Tibet.
_Velvet_ is a silken textile, the history of which has still to be
written. Of the country whence it first came, or the people who were
the earliest to hit upon the happy way of weaving it, we know nothing.
A very old piece was in the beautiful crimson cope embroidered by
English hands in the fourteenth century, now kept at the college of
Mount St. Mary, Chesterfield.
We are probably indebted to central Asia, or perhaps China, for velvet
as well as satin; and among the earliest places in Europe where it was
manufactured, were perhaps first the south of Spain, and then Lucca.
In the earliest of the inventories which we have of church vestments,
that of Exeter cathedral, 1277, velvet is not spoken of; but in St.
Paul’s, London, A. D. 1295, there is some notice of velvet with its
kindred web “fustian,” for chasubles. Velvet is for the first time
mentioned at Exeter in 1327, but as in two pieces not made up, of which
some yards had been then sold for vestment-making. From the middle of
the fourteenth century velvet is of common occurrence.
The name itself of velvet, “velluto,” seems to point out Italy as the
market through which we got it from the east, for the word in Italian
indicates something which is hairy or shaggy, like an animal’s skin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account