A celebrated Mohammedan writer, Ebn-Khaldoun, who died about the middle
of the fifteenth century, while speaking of that spot in an Arab
palace, the “Tiraz,” so designated from the name itself of the rich
silken stuffs therein woven, tells us that one of the privileges of
the Saracenic kings was to have the name of the prince himself, or the
special ensign chosen by his house, woven into the stuffs intended for
his personal wear, whether wrought of silk, brocade, or even coarser
kind of silk. While gearing his loom the workman contrived that the
letters of the title should come out either in threads of gold, or in
silk of another colour from that of the ground. The royal apparel thus
bore about it its own especial marks, and distinguished not only the
sovereign but those personages around him who were allowed by their
official rank in his court to wear it; or those again upon whom he
had bestowed rich garments as especial tokens of the imperial favour,
like the modern pelisse of honour. Before the time of Mahomet the
eastern princes used to have woven upon the stuffs wrought for their
personal use, or as gifts to others, their own especial likeness, or at
times the peculiar ensign of their royalty. But afterwards the custom
was changed and names were substituted, to which words were added
foreboding good or certain formulas of praise. Wherever the Moslem
ruled the practice was introduced; and thus, whether in Asia, in Egypt,
or other parts of Africa, or in Moorish Spain, the silken garments for
royalty and its favourites showed woven in them the prince’s name, or
his chosen text. The robes wrought in Egypt for the far-famed Saladin,
and worn by him as caliph, bore very conspicuously upon them the name
of that conqueror.
In the old lists of church ornaments frequent mention is found of
vestments inscribed with words in real or pretended Arabic; and when
St. Paul’s inventory more than once speaks of silken stuffs “de opere
Saraceno” it is not improbable that some at least of those textiles
were so called from having Arabic characters woven on them. Such,
too, were the letters on the red pall figured with elephants and a
bird, belonging in the fourteenth century to the cathedral at Exeter.
Somewhat later, our trade with the south of Spain led us to call such
words on woven stuffs Moorish: thus, Joane lady Bergavenny bequeaths
(1434) a “hullyng (hangings for a hall) of black red and green, with
morys letters, etc.”
[Illustration: Silk damask (Sicilian) with imitated Arabic letters.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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