The weaving of letters in textiles is neither a Moorish nor Saracenic
invention; ages before, the ancient Parthians used to do so, as we
learn from Pliny: “Parthi literas vestibus intexunt.” A curious
illustration of the frequent use of silken stuffs bearing letters,
borrowed from some real or supposed oriental alphabet, is the custom
which many of the illuminators had of figuring on frontals and altar
canopies, evidently intended to represent silk, meaningless words; and
the artists of Italy up to the middle of the sixteenth century did the
same on the hems of the garments worn by great personages, in their
paintings.
The eagle, single and double-headed, may frequently be found in the
patterns of old silks. In all ages certain birds of prey have been
looked upon by heathens as ominous for good or evil. Upon the standard
which was carried at the head of the Danish invaders of Northumbria
was figured the raven, the bird of Odin. This banner had been worked
by the daughters of Regnar Lodbrok, in one noontide’s while; and it is
recorded by Asser that if victory was to follow, the raven would seem
to stand erect and as if about to soar before the warriors; but if a
defeat was impending, the raven hung his head and drooped his wings.
Another and a more important flag, that which Harold fought under at
Hastings, is described by Malmesbury as having been embroidered in
gold with the figure of a man in the act of fighting, and studded with
precious stones, woven sumptuously.
In still earlier ages the eagle, known for its daring and its lofty
flight, was held in high repute; as the emblem of power and victory
it is to be seen flying in triumph over the head of some Assyrian
conqueror, as may be witnessed in Layard’s work on Nineveh. Homer
calls it the bird of Jove. Quintus Curtius says that a golden eagle
was carved upon the yoke of the war chariot of king Darius, as if
outstretching his wings. The Romans bore the bird upon their standards;
the Byzantine emperors kept it as their device; and, following the
ancient traditions of the east and heedless of their law that forbids
the making of images, the Saracens, especially when they ruled in
Egypt, had the eagle figured on several things about them, sometimes
single at others double-headed, which latter was the shape adopted by
the emperors of Germany as their blazon; in which form it is borne to
this day by several reigning houses. It is not strange, therefore, that
eagles of both fashions are so often to be observed woven upon ancient
and eastern textiles.
As early as 1277 Exeter cathedral reckoned among her vestments several
so decorated; for instance, a cope of baudekin figured with small
two-headed eagles: and Richard king of Germany, brother of Henry the
third of England, gave to the same church a cope of black baudekin with
eagles in gold figured on it. These are recorded in the inventories
printed by Dr. Oliver; and many like instances might be noticed in
other lists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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