But it was of her velvets that Florence was warrantably proud. Henry
the seventh bequeathed “to God and St. Peter, and to the abbot and
prior and convent of our monastery of Westminster, the whole suit of
vestments made at Florence in Italy.” We may yet see how gorgeous
this textile was in one of these Westminster abbey copes still in
existence, preserved at Stonyhurst college. The golden ground is
trailed all over with leaf-bearing boughs of a bold type, in raised or
cut ruby-toned velvet of a rich soft pile, which is freckled with gold
thread sprouting up like loops. Though not so rich in material nor so
splendid in pattern, there are at South Kensington, nos. 7792 and 7799,
two specimens of Florentine cut crimson velvet on a golden ground, like
the royal vestments in their kind and having the same peculiarity, the
little gold thread loop shooting out of the velvet pile. These pieces
are a full century later than the cope at Stonyhurst.
That peculiar sort of ornamentation--the little loop of gold thread
standing well up and in single spots--upon some velvets, seems at times
to have been replaced, perhaps with the needle, by small dots of solid
metal, gold or silver gilt, upon the pile: of the gift of one of its
bishops, John Grandisson, Exeter cathedral had a crimson velvet cope,
the purple velvet orphrey of which was so wrought: “purpyll velvette
worked with pynsheds” of pure gold.
Milan, though now-a-days she stands in such high repute for the
richness and beauty of her silks of all sorts, was not, we believe,
at any period during mediæval times as famous for her velvets,
her brocades, or cloths of gold, as for her armour, so strong and
trustworthy for the field, so exquisitely demascened for courtly
service. Still, in the sixteenth century, she earned a name for
rich cut velvets as may be seen in the specimen, no. 698; for her
silken net-work, no. 8336, which may have led the way to weaving silk
stockings; and for her laces of the open tinsel kind once in great
vogue for both sacred and secular use, as in no. 8331.
England, from her earliest period, had textile fabrics varying in
design and material; the colours in the woollen garments worn by each
of the three several classes into which the Bardic order was divided,
and of the chequered pattern in Boadicea’s cloak, have been already
mentioned. It would seem from John Garland, whose witness is referred
to above, p. 12, that the lighter and more tasteful webs wrought here
came from women’s hands; and the loom, one of which must have been in
almost every English nunnery and homestead, was of the simplest make.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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