In ancient times the Egyptians wove in an upright loom, and beginning
at top so as to weave downwards sat at their work. In Palestine also
the weaver had an upright loom, but, beginning at bottom and working
upwards, was obliged to stand. During the mediæval period the loom in
England was horizontal, as is shown by that figured in the Bedford
book of Hours (preserved in the British museum), fol. 32; at which the
blessed Virgin is seated weaving curtains for the temple.
There are several examples at South Kensington of the work of English
women, showing the excellence of their handicraft as well as elegance
in design during the thirteenth century. Nos. 1233, 1256, and 1270
may be referred to. But for specimens of the commoner sorts of silken
textiles and of wider breadth, which began to be woven in this country
under Edward the third, it would be hazardous to direct the reader.
Recent examples, velvets among the rest, may be found in the Brooke
collection. To some students the piece of old English printed chintz,
no. 1622, will not be without an interest.
For the finer sort of linen napery Eylisham or Ailesham in
Lincolnshire was famous during the fourteenth century. Exeter
cathedral, in 1327, had a hand towel of “Ailesham cloth.”
Our coarser native textiles in wool or in thread, or in both woven
together, formed a stuff called “burel.” St. Paul’s in 1295 had a
light blue chasuble, and Exeter cathedral in 1277 a long pall of this
texture. Burel and, in short, all the coarser kinds of work were
wrought by men: sometimes in monasteries. The old Benedictine rule
obliged the monks to give a certain number of hours every week-day to
hand-work, either at home or in the field.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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