We owe to Aristotle the earliest notice of the silkworm, and although
his account be incorrect it has much value, because he gives us
information about the original importation of raw silk into the western
world. Brought from China through India the silk came by water across
the Arabian ocean, up the Red Sea, and thence over the isthmus of
Suez (or perhaps rather by the overland route, through Persia) to the
small but commercial island of Cos, lying off the coast of Asia minor.
Pamphile, the daughter of Plates, is reported to have first woven silk
in Cos. Here, by female hands, were wrought those light thin gauzes
which became so fashionable; these were stigmatized by some of the
Latin poets, as well as by heathen moralists, as anything but seemly
for women’s wear. Tibullus speaks of them; and Seneca condemns them: “I
behold” he says “silken garments, if garments they can be called, which
are a protection neither for the body nor for shame.” Later still, and
in the Christian era, we have an echo to the remarks of Seneca in the
words of Solinus: “This is silk, in which at first women but now even
men have been led, by their cravings after luxury, to show rather than
to clothe their bodies.”
Looking over very ancient manuscripts we often find between richly
gilt illuminations, to keep them from harm or being hurt through the
rubbings of the next leaf, a covering of the thinnest gauze, just as
we now put sheets of silver paper for that purpose over engravings.
It is not impossible that some at least of these may be shreds from
the translucent textiles which found favour in the world for so long
a time during the classic period. The curious example of such gauzy
interleafings in the manuscript of Theodulph, now at Puy en Velay, will
occur perhaps to more than one of our readers.
It may be easily imagined that silken garments were brought, at an
early period, to imperial Rome. Not only, however, were the prices
asked for them so high that few could afford to buy such robes for
their wives and daughters, but, at first, they were looked upon as
quite unbecoming for men’s wear; hence, by a law of the Roman senate
under Tiberius, it was enacted: “Ne vestis serica vicos fœdaret.” While
noticing how womanish Caligula became in his dress Suetonius remarks
his silken attire: “Aliquando sericatus et cycladatus.” An exception
was made by some emperors for very great occasions, and both Titus
and Vespasian wore dresses of silk when they celebrated at Rome their
triumph over Judæa. Heliogabalus was the first emperor who wore whole
silk for clothing. Aurelian, on the other hand, neither had himself in
his wardrobe a garment wholly silk nor gave one to be worn by another.
When his own wife begged him to allow her to have a single mantle
of purple silk he replied, “Far be it from us to allow thread to be
reckoned worth its weight in gold.” For then a pound of gold was the
price of a pound of silk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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