Clothing made wholly or in part out of silk, nevertheless, became
every year more and more sought for. So remunerative was the trade of
weaving the raw material into its various forms, that, by the revised
code of laws for the Roman empire published A. D. 533, a monopoly in it
was given to the court, and looms worked by women were set up in the
imperial palace. Thus Byzantium became and long continued famous for
the beauty of its silken stuffs. Still, the raw silk itself had to be
brought thither from abroad; until two Greek monks, who had lived many
years among the Chinese, learnt the whole process of rearing the worm.
Returning, they brought with them a number of eggs hidden in their
walking-staves; and, carrying them to Constantinople, they presented
these eggs to the emperor who gladly received them. When hatched the
worms were distributed over Greece and Asia minor, and very soon the
western world reared its own silk. In some places, at least in Greece,
the weaving not only of the finer kinds of cloth but of silk fell
into the hands of the Jews. Benjamin of Tudela, writing in 1161,
tells us that the city of Thebes contained about two thousand Jewish
inhabitants. “These are the most eminent manufacturers of silk and
purple cloth in all Greece.”
South Italy wrought rich silken stuffs by the end of the eleventh
century; for we are told by our countryman Ordericus Vitalis, who died
in the first half of the twelfth century, that Mainerius, the abbot of
St. Evroul at Uzey in Normandy, on coming home brought with him from
Apulia several large pieces of silk, and gave to his church four of the
finest ones, with which four copes were made for the chanters.
From a feeling alive in the middle ages throughout the length and
breadth of Christendom, that the best of all things ought to be
given for the service of the Church, the garments of its celebrating
priesthood were, if not always, at least very often wholly of silk;
holosericus. Owing to this fact, we are now able to learn from
the few but tattered shreds before us what elegantly designed and
gorgeous stuffs the foreign mediæval loom could weave, and what
beautiful embroidery our own countrywomen knew so well how to work.
These specimens help us also to rightly understand the description
of the splendid vestments enumerated with such exactness in the old
inventories of our cathedrals and parish churches, as well as in the
early wardrobe accompts of our kings, and in the wills and bequests of
dignified ecclesiastics and nobility.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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