Coming westward among us, these much coveted stuffs brought with them
the several names by which they were commonly known throughout the
east, whether Greece, Asia minor, or Persia. Hence when we read of
samit, ciclatoun, cendal, baudekin, and other such terms unknown to
trade now-a-days, we should bear in mind that, notwithstanding the wide
variety of spelling which each of these appellations has run through,
we arrive at their true derivations, and discover in what country and
by whose hands they were wrought.
As commerce grew these fine silken textiles were brought to our
markets, and articles of dress were made of silk for men’s as well as
women’s wear among the wealthy. At what period the raw material came to
be imported here, not so much for embroidery as to be wrought in the
loom, we do not exactly know; but from several sides we learn that our
countrywomen of all degrees, in very early times, busied themselves in
weaving. Among the home occupations of maidens St. Aldhelm, at the end
of the seventh century, includes weaving. In the council at Cloveshoo,
in 747, nuns are exhorted to spend their time in reading or singing
psalms rather than weaving and knitting vainglorious garments of many
colours. By that curious old English book the ‘Ancren Riwle,’ written
towards the end of the twelfth century, ankresses are forbidden to
make purses or blodbendes (which were narrow strips to bind round the
arm after bleeding), to gain friends therewith. Were it not that the
weaving especially of silk was so generally followed in the cloister by
English women, it had been useless to have so strongly discountenanced
the practice.
But on silk weaving by our women in small hand-looms a very important
witness, especially about several curious specimens in the great
collection at South Kensington, is John Garland, born at the beginning
of the thirteenth century in London, where many of his namesakes were
and are still known. First, a John Garland, in 1170, held a prebend’s
stall in St. Paul’s cathedral. Another was sheriff at a later period.
A third, a wealthy draper of London, gave freely towards the building
of a church in Somersetshire. A fourth, who died in 1461, lies buried
in St. Sythe’s; and, at the present day, no fewer than twenty-two
tradesmen of that name, of whom six are merchants of high standing in
the city, are mentioned in the London post office directory for the
year 1868. We give these instances as some have tried to rob us of John
Garland by saying he was not an Englishman, though he has himself told
us he was “born in England and brought up in France.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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