Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Though, in the reign of our Henry II. London was the head city of this
kingdom, and the chief home of royalty, some reader may perhaps be
startled on hearing that while its churches were 120, the inhabitants
amounted only to the number of 40,000, as we learn from Peter, its then
archdeacon: “nam quum sint in illa civitate (Londinensi) quadra-ginta
millia hominum, atque centum et viginti ecclesiæ,” &c.[371]--yet, at
that very time, the capital of Sicily--Palermo--by itself was yielding
to its king a yearly revenue quite equal in amount to the whole income
of England’s sovereign, as we are told by Gerald Barry the learned
Welsh writer then living: “Urbs etenim una Siciliæ, Palernica scilicet,
plus certi redditus regi Siculo singulis annis reddere solet, quam
Anglorum regi nunc reddit Anglia tota.”[372] This great wealth was
gathered to Sicily by her trade in silken textiles, first with the
Byzantines and the coasts of Asia Minor and Alexandria, where those
stuffs were at the time wrought; and secondly, with Europe, and the
products of her own looms somewhat later. Many of the pieces in this
collection were woven at Palermo and other cities in that island.
She herself was not the least consumer of her own industry, and of
the profuse employment of silk for royal awnings, during the twelfth
century in the kingdom of the two Sicilies. We have an example in
the silken tent, made for queen Joan, and given her by her husband
king William, large enough to hold two hundred knights sitting down
to dinner; and which, along with her chair of gold, and golden table
twelve feet long and a foot and a-half wide, her brother, our Richard
I. got back for his sister from Tancred: “Ipse (Richardus rex) enim a
rege Tancredo exigebat--cathedram auream ad opus ejusdem Johannæ de
consuetudine reginarum illius regni et ad opus sui ipsius mensam auream
de longitudine duodecim pedum, et de latitudine unius pedis et semis
et quoddam tentorium de serico magnum adeo quod ducenti milites in eo
possint simul manducare.”[373]
Among the old copes, dalmatics and chasubles which, one after the
other, find their way at last to collections such as this, must the
historian seek for what remains of those gorgeous robes worn at some
interesting ceremony, or on some stirring occasion, by personages
celebrated in our national annals. For example, along with the several
gifts bestowed upon the church of Ely, by king Edgar, we find mentioned
his mantle of costly purple and gold, of which was made a vestment:
“Enimvero chlamydem suam de insigni purpura ad modum loricæ auro
undique contextam illuc (ecclesiæ Eliensi) contulit rex Ædgarus.”[374]
Of a whole set of mass vestments at Windsor made out of the crimson and
gold cloth powdered with birds, once the array worn by a royal princess
when she was married, we have already spoken.
[371] Petri Blesensis Opera, ed. Giles, t. ii. p. 85.
[372] Geraldi Cambrensis De Instructione Principum, ed. J. S. Brewer,
p. 168.
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