Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
[373] Rog. Hoveden Annal. ed. Savile, p. 384, b.
[374] Hist. Elien. Lib. Secund. ed. Stewart, p. 160.
Queen Philippa gave to Symon, bishop of Ely, the gown she wore at her
churching after the birth of her eldest son the Black Prince. The
garment was of murrey-coloured velvet, powdered with golden squirrels,
and so ample that it furnished forth three copes for choir use:
“Contulit sibi (Symoni de Monte Acuto) Domina regina quandam robam
preciosam cum omnibus garniamentis de velvet murreo squirrillis aureis
pulverizato; qua induta erat in die Purificationis suæ post partum
Principis excellentissimi Domini Edwardi filii sui primogeniti. De
quibus garniamentis tres capæ efficiuntur,” &c.[375] To St. Alban’s
Abbey was sent by Elizabeth Lady Beauchamp the splendid mantle made
of cloth of gold lined with crimson velvet which Henry V. had on as
he rode in state on horseback through London, the day before his
coronation. Also another gown of green and gold velvet out of both
of which vestments were made: “Elizabeth Beauchamp mulier nobilis
... contulit monasterio S. Albani quandam togam pretiosissimam auro
textam duplicatam cum panno de velvetto rubeo resperso cum rosis
aureis quæ quondam erat indumentum regis Henrici quinti dum regaliter
equitaret per Londonias pridie ante coronationem suam. Item dedit et
aliam gounam de viridi velvetto auro texto unde fieri posset integrum
vestimentum quæ similiter fuit ejusdem regis.”[376] Naturally wishful
to know something about such costly stuffs, the historian will have
to come hither, where he may find specimens in the gorgeous velvet
and gold chasubles in this collection. Whilst here perchance his eye
may wander toward such pieces as those Nos. 1310, p. 53, and 8624,
p. 239, whereon he sees figured, stags with tall branching horns,
couchant, chained, upturning their antlered heads to sunbeams darting
down upon them amid a shower of rain; and beneath the stags are
eagles; p. 239. This Sicilian textile, woven about the end of the
fourteenth century, brings to his mind that bronze cumbent figure of
a king in Westminster Abbey. It is of Richard II. made for him before
his downfal, and by two coppersmiths of London, Nicholas Broker and
Godfrey Prest. This effigy, once finely gilt, is as remarkable for its
beautiful workmanship, as for the elaborate manner in which the cloak
and kirtle worn by the king are diapered all over with the pattern
(now hid under coats of dirt) on that silken stuff out of which those
garments must have been cut for his personal wear while living; and it
consists of a sprig of the Planta genesta, the humble broom plant--the
haughty Plantagenets’ device--along with a couchant hart chained and
gazing straight forwards, and above it a cloud with rays darting up
from behind. With Edward III. Richard’s grandfather, “sunbeams issuing
from a cloud” was a favourite cognizance. The white hart he got from
the white hind, the cognizance of his mother Joan, the fair maid of
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