Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum — John Shaqi
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
To Aristotle do we owe the earliest notice, among the ancients, of the
silk-worm, and although his account be incorrect, it has much value,
since, along with his description, the celebrated Greek philosopher
gives us information about the original importation of raw silk into
the western world. Brought from China, through India, till it reached
the Indus, the silk came by water across the Arabian Ocean, up the Red
Sea, and thence over the Isthmus of Suez, or, perhaps, rather by the
overland route, through Persia, to the small but commercial island of
Cos (now Koss), lying off the coast of Asia Minor. Pamphile, daughter
of Plates, is reported to have first woven it (silk) in Cos.[23] Here,
by female hands, were wrought those light thin gauzes which became so
fashionable among some high dames, but while so often spoken of by the
poets of the Augustan period, were stigmatized by some among them, as
well as by the heathen moralists of after ages, as anything but seemly
for women’s wear. Thus Tibullus says of this sort of clothing:
Illa gerat vestes tenues, quas fœmina Coa
Texuit, auratas disposuitque vias.[24]
She may thin garments wear, which female Coan hands
Have woven, and in stripes disposed the golden bands.
Years afterwards, thus laments Seneca, the philosopher: “Video sericas
vestes, si vestes vocandæ sunt, in quibus nihil est, quo defendi aut
corpus aut denique pudor possit.” I behold silken garments, if garments
they can be called, which are a protection neither for the body nor for
shame.[25] And later still, and in the Christian era, an echo to the
remarks of Seneca do we hear in the words of Solinus: “Hoc illud est
sericum in quo ostentare potius corpora quàm vestire, primò feminis,
nunc etiam viris persuasit luxuriæ libido.”[26] This is silk, in which
at first women but now even men have been led, by their cravings after
luxury, to show rather than to clothe their bodies.
[23] Hist. Anim. V. c. 19, p. 850, ed. Duval.
[24] Tibullus, l. ii. 6.
[25] De Beneficiis, l. vii. c.
[26] Solinus, c. 1.
While looking over some precious early mediæval MS., often do we yet
find that its beautifully limned and richly gilt illuminations, to
keep them from harm, or being hurt through the rubbings of the next
leaf, have fastened beside them a covering of the thinnest gauze, just
as we put in sheets of silver paper for that purpose over engravings.
The likelihood is that some at least of these may be shreds from
some of those thin translucent textiles which found such favour in
the fashionable world for so long a time during the classic period.
To some at least of our readers, the curious example of such gauzy
interleafings in the manuscript of Theodulph, now at Puy en Velay, will
occur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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