Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Not only these transparent silken gauzes wrought in Cos, but far more
tasty stuffs, and flowered too, from Chinese looms, found their way to
Asia Minor and Italy. In telling of the barbarous nations then called
the Seres, Dionysius Periegetes writes that they comb the variously
coloured flowers of the desert land to make precious figured garments,
resembling in colour the flowers of the meadow, and rivalling (in
fineness) the work of spiders.[27]
As may be easily imagined, silken garments were brought, at an early
period, to imperial Rome. Such, however, were the high prices asked
for them, that few either would or could afford to buy these robes for
their wives and daughters; since, at first, they were looked upon as
quite unbecoming for men’s wear; hence, by a law of the Roman senate
under Tiberius, it was enacted: “Ne vestis serica vicos fœdaret.”
While noticing how womanish Caligula became in his dress, Suetonius
remarks his silken attire: “Aliquando sericatus et cycladatus.”[28] An
exception was made by some emperors for very great occasions, and both
Titus and Vespasian wore dresses of silk when they celebrated at Rome
their triumph over Judæa. Of the emperors who adopted whole silk for
their clothing, Heliogabalus was the first, and so fond was he of the
material, that, in the event of wishing to hang himself, he had got for
the occasion a rope, one strand of which was silk, and the other two
dyed with purple and scarlet: “Paraverat sunes, blatta et serico, et
cocco intortos, quibus si necesse esset, laqueo vitam finiret.”[29]
The abnegation of another Roman Emperor, Aurelian, both in respect
of himself and his empress, is, however, very remarkable: “Vestem
holosericam neque ipse in vestiario suo habuit neque alteri utendam
dedit. Et cum ab eo uxor sua peteret, ut unico pallio blatteo serico
uteretur, ille respondit absit, ut auro fila pensentur. Libra enim
auri tunc libra serici suit.”[30] Aurelian neither had himself in his
wardrobe a garment wholly silk, nor gave one to be worn by another.
When his own wife begged him to allow her to have a single mantle of
purple silk, he replied, “Far be it from us to allow thread to be
reckoned worth its weight in gold.” For then a pound of gold was the
price of a pound of silk.
Here it ought to be mentioned that, for some time before this period
a very broad distinction had been drawn, even in the sumptuary laws
of the empire, between garments made wholly, and partially of silk;
in the former, all the web, both woof and warp, is woven of nothing
but silk; in the latter, the woof is of cotton or of thread, the warp
only of silk. This difference in the texture is thus well set forth
by Lampridius, in his life of Alexander Severus, of whom he says: he
had few garments of silk--he never wore a tunic woven wholly of silk,
and he never gave away cloth made of silk mixed with less valuable
stuff. “Vestes sericas ipse raras habuit; holosericas nunquam induit
subsericam nunquam donavit.”[31]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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