Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
[27] Quoted by Yates, Textrinum Antiquorum, p. 181.
[28] Suetonius, c. 52.
[29] Lampridius, c. 26.
[30] Vopiscus, c. 45.
[31] Severus, c. 40.
Clothing made wholly or in part out of silk, became every year more
and more sought for. So remunerative was the trade of weaving the raw
material into its various forms, that, by the Justinian pandects, the
revised code of laws for the Roman Empire, drawn up and published A.D.
533--a monopoly in it was given to the court, and looms worked by women
were set up in the imperial palace. Thus Byzantium became, and long
continued famous for the beauty of its silken stuffs. Still, the raw
silk itself had to be brought thither from abroad; but a remedy was
very near at hand. Two Greek monks, while spending many years among the
Chinese, had well learned the whole process of rearing the worm. They
came home, and brought back with them a goodly number of eggs hidden
in their walking-staves, likely made of that hollow tough sort of reed
or tall grass, the Arundo Donax; and, carrying them to Constantinople,
they presented these eggs to the Emperor, who gladly received them.
When hatched, the worms were distributed all over Greece and Asia
Minor, and very soon the western world reared its own silk. Not long
afterwards, Persia and India also became silk-growing countries. In
some places, at least in Greece, the weaving not only of the finer
kinds of cloth, but of silk, got at last into the hands of the Jews.
Writing of his travels, A.D. 1161, Benjamin of Tudela tells us that the
great city of Thebes contained about two thousand Jewish inhabitants.
These are the most eminent manufacturers of silk and purple cloth in
all Greece.[32]
Telling us how the fleet of our first Richard coasted the shores of
Spain on its voyage to the Holy Land, Hoveden says of Almeria and its
silk factory: “Deinde per nobilem civitatem quæ dicitur Almaria ubi fit
nobile sericum et delicatum quod dicitur sericum de Almaria.”[33] So
prized were these fine delicate textiles that they were paid as tribute
to princes: “Insula de Maiore reddit ei (regi Arragoniæ) trecentos
pannos sericos de Almaria per annum de tributo,” &c.[34]
[32] Early Travels in Palestine, ed. T. Wright, p. 71.
[33] Rog. Hoveden, Ann. ed. Savile, Rer. Ang. Script., p. 382.
[34] Ib. p. 382, b.
South Italy wrought rich silken stuffs by the end of the eleventh
century; for we are told by our countryman, Ordericus Vitalis, who died
in the first half of the twelfth century, that Mainerius, the abbot
of his monastery of St. Evroul, at Uzey, in Normandy, on coming home,
brought with him from Apulia several large pieces of silk, and gave to
the Church four of the finest ones, with which four copes were made
for the chanters: “De pallis quas ipse de Apulia detulerat quatuor de
preciosioris S. Ebrulfo obtulit ex quibus quatuor cappæ cantorum in
eadem factæ sunt ecclesia.”[35]
[35] Ordericus Vitalis, Ecc. Hist., l. v. p. 584.
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