Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
In a sort of very short dictionary, drawn up by that writer, and
printed at the end of “Paris sous Philippe Le Bel,” edited by M.
H. Geraud, our countryman says: “Textrices quæ texunt serica texta
projiciunt fila aurata officio cavillarum et percuciunt subtemina cum
linea (lignea?) spata: de textis vero fiunt cingula et crinalia divitum
mulierum et stole sacerdotum.”[43] Though short, this passage is
curious and valuable. From it we learn that, besides the usual homely
textiles, those more costly cloth-of-gold webs were wrought by our
women, and very likely, among their other productions--cingula--were
those “blodbendes,” the weaving of which had been forbidden to
ankresses and nuns; perhaps, too, of those narrow gold-wrought ribbons
in this collection, pp. 24, 33, 38, 217, 218, 219, 221, &c., some may
have been so employed by our high-born dames on occasion of their
being bled, since as late as the sixteenth century some seasons were
deemed fit, others quite unfitting for the operation. Hence, in his
Richard II. act 1, scene i. Shakespeare makes the king to warn those
wrath-kindled gentlemen, Bolingbroke and Norfolk:
Our doctors say this is no month to bleed.
[43] Ib. 607.
And our most popular books in olden time, one the Shepherd’s Kalendar,
speaking about the signs of the zodiack, tell us which of the twelve
months are either good, evil, or indifferent for blood-letting.
John Garland’s “cingula” may also mean those rich girdles or sashes
worn by our women round the waist, and of which we have one in this
collection, No. 8571, p. 218. Of this sort, is that border--amber
coloured silk and diapered--round a vestment found in a grave at
Durham, and like “a thick lace, one inch and a quarter broad--evidently
owing its origin, not to the needle, but to the loom,” &c.[44] For
the artist wishful to be correct concerning the head-gear of ladies
from Anglo-Saxon times till the end of the later Plantagenets, this
collection can furnish examples of those bands in those narrow textiles
spoken of by our John Garland. For an after-period those bands are
shown on the statuary, and amid the limning in illuminated MSS. of the
thirteenth century; as instances of the narrow girdle, may be viewed
a lady’s effigy, in Romney church, Hants; and that of Ann of Bohemia,
in Westminster Abbey; both to be found in Hollis’s Monumental Effigies
of Great Britain; for the band about the head, the examples in the
wood-cuts in Planchè’s British Costumes, p. 116.
[44] Raine’s St. Cuthbert, p. 196.
Of such head-bands we have one at number 8569, p. 217, and other
three mentioned upon p. 221. They are, no doubt, the old snôd of
the Anglo-Saxon period. For high-born dames they were wrought of
silk and gold; those of lower degree wore them of simpler stuff. The
silken snood, affected to the present hour by young unmarried women
in Scotland, is a truthful witness to the fashion in vogue during
Anglo-Saxon and later times in this country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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