Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum — John Shaqi
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
With regard to what John Garland says of stoles so made, there is one
here, No. 1233, p. 24, quite entire.
From what has been here brought forward, it will be seen that of silk,
whence it came or what was its kind, nothing was truly understood,
even by the learned, for many ages. While, then, we smile at Virgil
and the other ancients for thinking that silk was a sort of herbaceous
fleece growing upon trees, let us not forget that not so many years
ago our own Royal Society printed a paper in which it is set forth
that the yet-called Barnacle Goose comes from a mussel-like bivalve
shell, known as the “Anatifa,” or Barnacle, an origin for the bird
still believed in by some of our seafaring folks, and fostered after
a manner by well-read people by the scientific nomenclature of the
shell and the vernacular epithet for the goose. In the twelfth century,
our countryman, Alexander Neckham, foster-brother to our Richard I.,
wrote of this marvel thus: “Ex lignis abiegnis salo diuturno tempore
madefactis originem sumit avis quæ vulgo dicitur bernekke,” &c.[45]
Such, however, was the Cirencester Augustinian friar’s knowledge of
natural history, that, at least four hundred years ere the Royal
Society had a being amongst us, he thus spurns the popular belief upon
the subject:--
Ligna novas abiegna salo madefacta, jubente
Natura, volucres edere fama refert.
Id viscosus agit humor, quod publica fama
Afserit indignans philosophia negat.[46]
Of a truth the Record Commission is doing England good service by
drawing out of darkness the works of our mediæval writers.
[45] De Natura Rerum, p. 99, published under the direction of the
Master of the Rolls.
[46] Ib. p. 304.
The breeding of the worm and the manufacture of its silk both spread
themselves with steady though slow steps over most of those countries
which skirt the shores of the Mediterranean; so that, by the tenth
century, those processes had reached from the far east to the uttermost
western limits of that same sea. Even then, and a long time after, the
natural history of the silkworm became known but to a very few. Our
aforesaid countryman, Alexander Neckham, made Abbot of Cirencester,
A.D. 1213, was, it is likely, the first who, while he had learned,
tried in his popular work, “De Natura Rerum,” to help others to
understand the habits of the insect: “Materiam vestium sericarum
contexit vermis qui bombex dicitur. Foliis celsi, quæ vulgo morus
dicitur, vescitur, et materiam serici digerit; postquam vero operari
cœperit, escam renuit, labori delicioso diligentem operam impendens.
Calathi parietes industrius textor circuit, lanam educens crocei
coloris quæ nivei candoris efficitur per ablutionem, antequam tinctura
artificialis superinduitur. Consummato autem opere nobilis textoris,
thecam in opere proprio involutam centonis in modum subintrat jamque
similis papilioni, &c.”[47]
[47] Ed. T. Wright, p. 272.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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