Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Of those several raw materials that have, from the earliest periods,
been employed in weaving, though not in such frequency as silk, one is
GOLD,
which, when judiciously brought in, brings with it, not a barbaric, but
artistical richness.
The earliest written notice we have about the employment of this
precious metal in the loom, or of the way in which it was wrought for
such a purpose, we find set forth in the Pentateuch, where Moses tells
us that he (Beseleel) made of violet and purple, scarlet and fine
linen, the vestments for Aaron to wear when he ministered in the holy
places. So he made an ephod of gold, violet, and purple, and scarlet
twice dyed, and fine twisted linen, with embroidered work; and he cut
thin plates of gold and drew them small into strips, that they might
be twisted with the woof of the aforesaid colours.[48] Instead of
“strip,” the authorized version says, “wire,” another translation reads
“thread;” but neither can be right, for both of these English words
mean a something round or twisted in the shape given to the gold before
being wove, whereas the metal must have been worked in quite flat, as
we learn from the text.
[48] Exodus xxxix. 1, 2, 3.
This brings us to a short notice of
CLOTH OF GOLD, OR TISSUE.
The use of gold for weaving, both along with linen or quite by itself,
existed, it is likely, among the Egyptians, long before the days of
Moses. In either way of its being employed, the precious metal was
at first wrought in a flattened, never in a round or wire shape. To
this hour the Chinese and the people of India work the gold into their
stuffs after the first and ancient form. In this fashion, to even now,
the Italians love to weave their lama d’oro, or the more glistening
toca--those cloths of gold which, to all Asiatic and many European
eyes, do not glare with too much garishness, but shine with a glow that
befits the raiment of personages in high station.
Among the nations of ancient Asia, garments made of webs dyed with
the costly purple tint, and interwoven with gold, were on all grand
occasions worn by kings and princes. So celebrated did the Medes
and Persians become in such works of the loom, that cloths of
extraordinary beauty got their several names from those peoples, and
Medean, Lydian, and Persian textiles came to be everywhere sought for
with eagerness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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