Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
It chanced that she went in a certain ship full of pilgrims to
Jerusalem, where, on the feast of the Elevation of the Cross, she
was hindered by a miracle from entering the church. Then, coming to
herself, she made a vow of penance, and withdrew to the desert beyond
the Jordan. There she lived unseen for forty years, till all her
garments fell away and she had nothing wherewith to clothe herself but
her own long hair.
On the stuff before us the anachronism of its design will be soon
perceived from this rapid sketch of St. Mary’s life. Instead of being,
as she must have been, arrayed in the female fashion of the time when
she went to Jerusalem, the great penitent is represented so far quite
naked that her own long tresses, falling all around her, are her only
mantle--just as she used to be more than forty years afterwards. But
yet the design well unfolds her story; the hand darting rays of light
signifies the revelation given her from heaven, and the blessing that
followed it; while the two stars tell of Jerusalem, as also does the
elaborately-fashioned cross that is standing on the altar, the frontal
to which, in the upper border, seems ornamented in purple, with an
inscription, now unreadable, but the last letters of which look as if
they are R L I. The bird, perhaps a dove, has no part in the saint’s
history, but is a fancy of the artist. In Dr. Bock’s “Geschichte der
Liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters,” 1 Band, 1 Lieferung, pl. xi.
is a figure of this stuff.
1312.
Silk Damask; ground, crimson; design, a complication of geometric lines
and figures in yellow, blue, green and white. Moresque, 15th century.
22½ inches by 18½ inches.
Those who know the ornamentation on the burned clay tiles and the gilt
plaster ceilings in the Alhambra at Granada will recognize the same
feeling and style in this showy stuff, the silk of which is so good,
and the colours, particularly the crimson, so warm.
1313.
Part of an Orphrey; ground, deep crimson satin, edged with a narrow
green band; design, three apostolic figures beneath Gothic canopies,
all wrought in gold thread and coloured silks upon canvas and applied.
German, early 15th century. 30 inches by 7¼ inches.
Each figure is nicely worked; and the first, beginning at the top,
holding a sword erect in his right hand, is St. James the Greater;
beneath him, with a halbert, St. Matthew; and last of all, holding
in one hand a book, in the other a sword, St. Paul. The flowery
crocketing running up the arches of the niches is particularly good.
1314.
Silk Damask; ground, crimson (now faded); design, two golden lions with
their fore-paws resting on a white scroll, looking down upon an orb
darting straight down its rays upon the heads of two perched eagles,
amid foliation, all in green. Italian, late 14th century. 26 inches by
9¾ inches.
A fine design, and sketched with great freedom; but the silk and gold
employed in it are not of the best.
1315.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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