Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Silk Taffeta; ground, brown; design, broad bands made up of eight
red-edged orange stripes within two white ones. Egyptian, 10th century.
26 inches by 9¾ inches.
1316.
Silk Taffeta; ground, purple; design, narrow stripes made up of white
purple and green lines. Egyptian, 10th century. 24 inches by 3½
inches.
These scarce examples of Oriental ability in the production of very
thin substances for personal adornment and dress, under such a sun as
even the north of Africa has, were originally wrought for ordinary,
not religious use. They were brought to Europe as precious stuffs, and
given as such to the Church and used for casting over the tombs of the
saints, as palls, or as linings for thicker silken vestments. That
these or any of the following specimens of gauze or taffeta were ever
put to the purpose of making stockings, or rather leggings like boots,
still worn by bishops on solemn occasions during the celebrations of
the liturgy, cannot for a moment be thought of. Such appliances are,
and always were, made either of velvet or strong cloth of gold or
silver.
1317.
Silk Gauze; ground, light green; design, broad bands composed of white,
black, and orange stripes. Egyptian, 10th century. 13 inches by 4
inches.
1318.
Taffeta, Silk and Cotton; ground and design, broad stripes of crimson,
green, crimson and orange, separated by narrow lines of white; the warp
is of brown fine cotton. Egyptian, 10th century. 12 inches by 2½
inches.
Of such stuffs the Orientals make their girdles to this day; and for
such a purpose we presume this taffeta was woven at Cairo and for
Moslem use, as the green of the so-called prophet is one among its
colours.
1319.
Silk Gauze; ground, a light green. Egyptian, 10th century. 10 inches by
3½ inches.
Though without any pattern, such a specimen is very valuable for
letting us see the delicate texture which the Saracens, like the
ancient Egyptians, knew how to give to the works of the loom. This,
like No. 1317, if ever used for church purposes, could only have been
employed for spreading over shrines, or the lining of vestments;
specimens like these are sometimes found between the leaves in
illuminated MSS, to protect the paintings.
1320.
Silk and Gold Damask; ground, crimson (now faded) silk; design, lions
in pairs addorsed, regardant, each with a swan swung upon its back,
and held by the neck in its mouth, bounding from out a small space
surrounded by a low circular paling, and amid two large conventional
floriations; at the top of one of these are two squirrels sitting
upright, or sejant, all in gold. Italian, late 14th century. 17½
inches by 10¾ inches.
Unfortunately this curious well-figured and interesting design is
somewhat wasted upon materials so faded, as scarcely to show it
now. The foliation is rather thick and heavy. In Dr. Bock’s work,
“Geschichte der Liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters,” 1 Band, 1
Lieferung, pl. xiv. may be found this stuff, nicely figured.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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