Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
was found out. At what period, and among what people the art of
working up pure gold, or gilded silver, into a long, round, hair-like
thread--into what may be correctly called “wire”--began, is quite
unknown. That with their mechanical ingenuity the ancient Egyptians
bethought themselves of some method for the purpose, is not unlikely.
From Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, we learn that at Thebes there was found
the appearance of gold wire.[90] Of those remarkable pieces of Egyptian
handicraft the corslets sent by King Amasis--one to Lindus, the second
to Lacædemon--of which we have already spoken (p. xiv.), we may fairly
presume that the work upon them done by the needle in gold, required
by its minuteness that the precious metal should be not flat, but in
the shape of a real wire. By the delicate management of female fingers,
the usual narrow flat strips might have been pinched or doubled up, so
that the two edges should meet, and then rubbed between men’s harder
hands, or better still, between two pieces of smooth highly-polished
granite, would produce a golden wire of any required fineness.
Belonging to the writer is an Egyptian gold ring, which was taken from
off the finger of a mummy by a friend. The hoop is a plain, somewhat
thick wire. On each side of its small green-dyed ivory scarabee, to
keep it in its place, are wound several rounds of rather fine wire. In
Etruscan and Greek jewellery, wire is often to be found; but in all
instances it is so well shaped and so even, that no hammer could have
hardly wrought it, and it must have been fashioned by some rolling
process. All through the mediæval times the filigree work is often
very fine and delicate. Likely is it that the embroidery which we thus
read of in the descriptions of the vestments belonging whilom to our
old churches, for instance: “amictus breudatus cum auro puro”[91]--was
worked with gold wire. To go back to Anglo-Saxon times in this country,
such gold wire would seem to have been well known and employed, since
in Peterborough minster there were two golden altar-cloths: “ii.
gegylde ƿeofad sceatas;”[92] and at Ely Cathedral, among its old ritual
ornaments, were, in the reign of William Rufus: “Duo cinguli, unus
totus de auri filo, alter de pallio cujus pendentia” (the tassels)
“sunt bene ornata de auri filo.”[93]
The first idea of a wire-drawing machine dawned upon a workman’s mind
in the year 1360, at Nuremberg; and yet it was not until two hundred
years after, A.D. 1560, that the method was brought to England. One
sample of a stuff with pure wire in it may be seen, p. 220, No. 8581,
in this collection, as well as at No. 8228, p. 150.
[90] Ancient Egyptians, iii. 130.
[91] Church of our Fathers, i. 469.
[92] Mon. Anglic. t. i. p. 382.
[93] Hist. Elien. lib. ii., c. 139, p. 283, ed. Steuart.
Equally interesting to our present subject is the process of twining
long narrow strips of gold, or in its stead gilt silver, round a line
of silk or flax, and thus producing
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