Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
GOLD THREAD.
Probably its origin, as far as flax and not silk is concerned, as being
the underlying substance, is much earlier than has been supposed; and
when Attalus’s name was bestowed upon a new method of interweaving gold
with wool or linen, it happened so not because that Pargamanean king
had been the first to think of twisting gold about a far less costly
material, and thus, in fact, making gold thread such as we now have,
but through his having suggested to the weaver the long-known golden
thread as a woof into the textiles from his loom. From this point of
view, we may easily believe what Pliny says: “Aurum intexere in eadem
Asia invenit Attalus rex; unde nomen Attalicis.”[94] In that same Asia
King Attalus invented the method of using a woof of gold; from this
circumstance the Attalic cloths got their name.
That, at least for working embroidery, ladies at an early Christian
period used to spin their own gold thread, would seem from a passage in
Claudian. Writing on the elevation to the consulate of the two brothers
Probinus and Olybrius, at the end of the fourth century, the poet thus
gracefully compliments their aged mother, Proba, who with her own hands
had worked the purple and gold-embroidered robes, the “togæ pictæ,” or
“trabeæ,” to be worn by her sons in their office:
Lætatur veneranda parens, et pollice docto
Jam parat auratas trabeas ...
* * * * *
Et longum tenues tractus producit in aurum
Filaque concreto cogit squalere metallo.[95]
The joyful mother plies her learned hands,
And works all o’er the trabea golden bands,
Draws the thin strips to all their length of gold,
To make the metal meaner threads enfold.
A consular figure, arrayed in the purple trabea, profusely embroidered
in gold, is shown in “The Church of our Fathers.”[96]
[94] Lib. viii. c. 47.
[95] In Probini et Olybrii Consulatum, 177-182.
[96] T. ii. p. 131.
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