Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum — John Shaqi
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
When in the field, over their armour, whether of mail or plate, knights
wore a long sleeveless gown slit up almost to the waist on both sides:
sometimes of “samit,” often of “cendal,” oftener still of “ciclatourn,”
because of its flowing showy texture was this garment made, and from
a new and contracted way of calling it, the name of the gown, like
the shortened one for its stuff, became known as “cyclas,” nothing
akin to the κυκλας--the full round article of dress worn by the women
of Greece and Rome. When, A.D. 1306, before setting out to Scotland,
Edward I. girded his son, the prince of Wales, with so much pomp, a
knight, in Westminster Abbey; to the three hundred sons of the nobility
whom the heir to the throne was afterward to dub knights in the same
church, the king made a most splendid gift of attire fitting for the
ceremony, and among other textiles sent them were these “clycases”
wove of gold:--“Purpura, bissus, syndones, cyclades auro textæ,” &c.
as we learn from Matthew Westminster, “Flores Historiarum,” p. 454.
How very light and thin must have been all such garments, we gather
from the quiet wit of John of Salisbury while jeering the man who
affected to perspire in the depth of winter, though clad in nothing but
his fine “cyclas:”--“dum omnia gelu constricta rigent, tenui sudat in
cylade.”[114]
Not so costly, and even somewhat thinner in texture, was a silken stuff
known as _cendal_, _cendallus_, _sandal_, _sandalin_, _cendatus_,
_syndon_, _syndonus_, as the way of writing the word altered as time
went on. When Sir Guy of Warwick was knighted,
And with him twenty good gomes
Knightes’ and barons’ sons,
Of cloth of Tars and rich cendale
Was the dobbing in each deal.[115]
[114] Polycraticus, lib. VIII. c. xii.
[115] Ellis’s Met. Rom. i. 15.
The Roll of Caerlaverock tells us that among the grand array which met
and joined Edward I. at Carlisle, A.D. 1300, on his
road to invade Scotland, there was to be seen many a rich caparison
embroidered upon cendal and samit:--
La ot meint riche guarnement
Brodé sur sendaus e samis.[116]
And Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, leading the first squadron, hoisted his
banner made of yellow cendal blazoned with a lion rampant purpre.[117]
Baner out de un cendal safrin,
O un lioun rampant purprin.
Most, if not all the other flags were made of the same cendal silk.
[116] Roll of Caerlaverock, ed. Wright, p. 1.
[117] Ibid. p. 2.
When the stalworth knight of Southampton wished to keep himself unknown
at a tournament, we thus read of him--
Sir Bevis disguised all his weed
Of black cendal and of rede,
Flourished with roses of silver bright, &c.[118]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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