Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Of the ten beautiful silken albs which Hugh Pudsey left to Durham,
two were made of samit, other two of cendal, or as the bishop calls
it, _sandal_: “Quæ dicuntur sandales.”[119] Exeter cathedral had a
red cope with a green lining of sandal: “Capa rubea cum linura viridi
sandalis;”[120] and a cape of sandaline: “Una capa de sandalin.”[121]
Chasubles, too, were, it is likely, for poorer churches, made of cendal
or sandel; Piers Ploughman speaks thus to the high dames of his day--
And ye lovely ladies
With youre long fyngres,
That ye have silk and sandal
To sowe, whan tyme is.
Chesibles for chapeleyns,
Chirches to honoure, &c.[122]
A stronger kind of cendal was wrought and called, in the Latin
inventories of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, cendatus
afforciatus, and of such there was a cope at St. Paul’s;[123] while
another cope of cloth of gold was lined with it,[124] as also a
chasuble of red samit given by Bishop Henry of Sandwich.
[118] Ellis’s Met. Rom. ii. 156.
[119] Wills and Inventories, p. 3.
[120] Oliver, p. 299.
[121] Ib. p. 315.
[122] The Vision, Passus Sextus, t. i. p. 117, ed. Wright.
[123] P. 317.
[124] P. 318.
_Syndonus_ or _Sindonis_, as it would seem, was a bettermost sort of
cendal. St. Paul’s had a chasuble as well as a cope of this fabric:
“Casula de sindone purpurea, linita cendata viridi;[125] “capa de
syndono Hispanico.”[126]
[125] P. 323.
[126] Transcriber’s note: Footnote, originally number 9 on page xli,
not in original text.
_Taffeta_, it is likely, if not a thinner, was a less costly silken
stuff than cendal; which word, to this day, is used in the Spanish
language, and is defined to be a thin transparent textile of silk or
linen: “Tela de seda ó lino muy delgada y trasparente.”
As the Knights’ flags:
Ther gonfanens and ther penselles
Wer well wrought off grene sendels;
as their long cyclases which they wore over their armour were of
cendal, so too were of cendal, all blazoned with their armorial
bearings, the housing of the steeds they strode. Of cendal, also, was
the lining of the church’s vestments, and the peaceful citizen’s daily
garments. Of his “Doctour of Phisike,” Chaucer tells us:--
In sanguin and in perse he clad was alle
Lined with taffata, and with sendalle.[127]
For the weaving of cendal, among the Europeans, Sicily was once
celebrated, and a good example from others in this collection, is No.
8255, p. 163.
[127] Prologue, Poems, ed. Nicolas, ii. 14.
_Sarcenet_, during the fifteenth century took by degrees the place of
cendal, at least here in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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