Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Throughout by far the longest length and the widest breadth of the
earth, sheep, at an early period, were bred, not so much for food as
for raiment. At first, the locks of wool torn away from the animal’s
back by brambles, were gathered: afterwards shearing was thought of
and followed in some countries, while in others the wool was not cut
off, but plucked by the hand away from the living creature, as we
learn from Pliny:[1] “Oves non ubique tondentur: durat quibusdam in
locis vellendi mos.” Got in either method the fleeces were, from the
earliest times, spun by women from the distaff. At last so wishful
were the growers to improve the coats of their lambs that they clothed
them in skins; a process which not only fined the staple of the wool,
but kept it clean, and better fitted it for being washed and dyed,
as we are told by many ancient writers, such as Horace and the great
agricultural authority Varro. In uttering his wish for a sweet peaceful
home in his old age, either at Tibur, or on the banks of the pleasant
Gelæsus, thus sings the poet:
Dulce pellitis ovibus Gelæsi
Flumen.[2]
And what were these “oves pellitæ,” or “tectæ” and “molles,” as they
were called, in contradistinction to “hirtæ,” we understand from Varro,
who says, “oves pellitæ; quæ propter lanæ bonitatem, ut sunt Taren-tinæ
et Atticæ, pellibus integuntur, ne lana inquinetur quo minus vel infici
rectè possit, vel lavari ac parari.”[3]
This latter very ancient daily work followed by women of all degrees,
spinning from off the distaff, was taught to our Anglo-Saxon sisters
among all ranks of life, from the king’s daughter downwards. In his
life of Eadward the elder, A.D. 901, Malmesbury writes: “Filias suas
ita instituerat ut literis omnes in infantia maxime vacarent, mox etiam
colum et acum exercere consuescerent, ut his artibus pudice impubem
virginitatem transigerent.”[4] The same occupation is even now a female
favourite in many countries on the Continent, particularly so all
through Italy. Long ago it bestowed the name of spindle-tree on the
Euonymus plant, on account of the good spindles which its wood affords,
and originated the term “spinster,” yet to be found in our law-books
as meaning an unmarried woman even of the gentlest blood, while every
now and then from the graves that held the ashes of our sisters of
the British and the Anglo-Saxon epochs, are picked up the elaborately
ornamented leaden whorls which they fastened at the lower end of their
spindles to give them a due weight and steadiness as they twirled them
round.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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