Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum — John Shaqi
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Beginning with the British islands on the west, and going eastward on
a line running through the Mediterranean sea, and stretching itself
out far into Asia, we find that the peoples who dwelt to the north
of such a boundary wrought several of their garments out of sheep’s
wool, goats’ hair, and beavers’ fur, while those living to the south,
including the inhabitants of North Africa, Arabia, and Persia, besides
the above-named animal produce, employed for these purposes, as well
as tent-making, the wool and hair which their camels gave them: the
Baptist’s garment was of the very coarsest kind.
Of the use of woollen stuff, not woven but plaited, among the older
stock of the Britons, a curious instance was very lately brought to
light while cutting through an early Celtic grave-hill or barrow in
Yorkshire: the dead body had been wrapped, as was shown by the few
unrotted shreds still cleaving to its bones, in a woollen shroud of
coarse and loose fabric wrought by the plaiting process without a
loom.[5]
As time crept on, it brought along with it the loom, fashioned though
it was after its simplest form, to the far west, and taught its use
throughout the British islands. The art of dyeing very soon followed;
and so beautiful were the tints which our Britons knew how to give
to their wools, that strangers, while they wondered at, were not a
little jealous of the splendour of those tones. From the heavy stress
laid upon the rule which taught that the official colour in their
dress assigned to each of the three ranks into which the bardic order
was distinguished, must be of one simple unbroken shade, whether
spotless white, symbolic of sun-light and holiness, for the druid or
priest--whether sky-blue, emblem of peace, for the bard or poet--or
green, the livery of the wood and field, for the Ovydd or teacher
of natural history and leech-craft, yet at the same moment we know
that party-coloured stuffs were woven here, and after two forms: the
postulants asking leave to be admitted into bardism might be recognized
by the robe barred with stripes of white, blue, and green, which they
had to wear during all the term of their initiation. With regard to
the bulk of our people, according to the Greek historian of Rome--Dion
Cassius, born A.D. 155--the garments worn by them were made of a
texture wrought in a square pattern of several colours; and speaking
of our brave-hearted British queen, Boadicea, that same writer tells
us that she usually had on, under her cloak, a motley tunic, χιτὼν
παμποίκιλος, that is, checkered all over with many colours. This
garment we are fairly warranted in deeming to have been a native stuff,
woven of worsted after a pattern in tints and design exactly like
one or other of the present Scotch plaids. Pliny, who seems to have
gathered a great deal of his natural history from scraps of hearsay,
most likely included these ancient sorts of British textiles along
with those from Gaul, when he wrote:--“Plurimis vero liciis texere quæ
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