Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Out of the several specimens here from Tartary and India, during our
mediæval period, we pick one or two which show well the meaning of
those words uttered by that great Venetian traveller, while speaking
about the textiles he saw in those countries. The dark purple piece of
silk, figured in gold with birds and beasts, of the thirteenth century,
No. 7086, p. 137, is good; but better still for our purpose is the
shred, No. 7087, p. 138, of blue damask, with its birds, its animals,
and flowers wrought in gold, and different coloured silks.
What India is, it has ever been, famous for its cloud-like transparent
muslins, which since Marco Polo’s days have kept till now even that
oriental name, through being better than elsewhere woven at Mosul.
[223] I Viaggi di Marco Polo, ed. A. Bartoli, Firenze, 1865, p. 345.
The _Syrian_ school is well represented here by several fine pieces.
The whole sea-board of that part of Asia Minor, as well as far
inland, was inhabited by a mixture of Jews, Christians, and Saracens;
and each of these people were workers in silk. The reputation of
the neighbouring Persia had of old stood high for the beauty and
durability of her silken textiles, which made them to be sought for by
the European traders. Persia’s outlet to the west for her goods, lay
through the great commercial ports on the coast of Syria. Setting, like
Persia used to do, as it were, her own peculiar seal upon her figured
webs, by mingling in her designs the mystic “homa,” to the European
mind this part of the pattern became, at first, a sort of assurance
that those goods had been thrown off by Persian looms. By one of those
tricks of imitation followed then, as well as now, the Syrian designers
for the loom threw this “homa” into their patterns. This symbol of
“the tree of life,” had no doubt been a borrow by Zoroaster from Holy
Writ.[224] Neither to the Christian’s eye, nor to the Jew’s, nor
Moslem’s, was there in it anything objectionable; all three, therefore,
took it and made it a leading portion of design in the patterns of
their silks; and hence is it that we meet it so often. Though done
with perhaps a fraudulent intention of palming on the world Syrian for
real Persian silks, those Syrians usually put into their own designs a
something which spoke of their peculiar selves and their workmanship.
Though there be seen the “homa,” the “cheetah,” and other elements of
Persian patterns, still the discordant two-handled vase, the badly
imitated Arabic sentence, betray the textile to be not Persian,
but Syrian. No. 8359, p. 213, will readily exemplify our meaning.
Furthermore, perhaps quite innocent of any knowledge about Persia’s
first belief, and her use of the “homa” in her old religious services,
the Christian weavers of Syria, along with the Zorasterian symbol, put
the sign of the cross by the side of that “tree of life,” as we find
upon the piece of silk, No. 7094, p. 140. Another remarkable specimen
of the Syrian loom is No. 7034, p.
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