Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
122, whereon the Nineveh lions come
forth so conspicuously. As a good example of well-wrought “diaspron” or
diaper, No. 8233, p. 154, may be mentioned, along with No. 7052, p. 127.
[224] Genesis ii. 9.
_Saracenic_ weaving, as shown by the design upon the web, is
exemplified in several specimens before us.
However much against what looks like a heedlessness of the Koran’s
teachings, certain it is that the Saracens, those of the upper
classes in particular, felt no difficulty in wearing robes upon which
animals and the likenesses of other created things were woven; with
the strictest of their princes, a double-headed eagle was a royal
heraldic device, as we have shown, p. lxiii. Stuffs, then, figured
with birds and beasts, with trees and flowers, were not the less of
Saracenic workmanship, and meant for Moslem wear. What, however, may
be looked for upon real Saracenic textures is a pattern consisting of
longitudinal stripes of blue, red, green, and other colour; some of
them charged with animals, small in form, other some written, in large
Arabic letters, with a word or sentence, often a proverb, often a good
wish or some wise saw.
As examples we would point to No. 8288, p. 178, and 7051, p. 127.
For a fair specimen of diapering, No. 7050, p. 127, while No. 8639,
p. 243, presents us with a design having in it, besides the crescent
moon, a proof that architectural forms were not forgotten by the
weaver-draughtsman, in his sketches for the loom.
Later, in our chapter on Tapestry, we shall have occasion to speak
about another sort of Saracenic work or tapestry, of the kind called
abroad, from the position of its frame, of the basse lisse.
_Moresco-Spanish_, or Saracenic textiles, wrought in Spain, though
partaking of the striped pattern, and bearing words in real or imitated
Arabic, had some distinctions of their own. The designs shown upon
these stuffs are almost always drawn out of strap-work, reticulations,
or some combination or another of geometrical lines, amid which are
occasionally to be found different forms of conventional flowers.
Specimens are to be seen here at pp. 51, 55, 121, 124, 125, 186, 240,
&c. Sometimes, but very rarely, the crescent moon is figured as in the
curious piece, No. 8639, p. 243. The colours of these silks are usually
either a fine crimson, or a deep blue with almost always a fine toned
yellow as a ground. But one remarkable feature in these Moresco-Spanish
textiles is the presence, when gold is brought in, of an ingenious
though fraudulent imitation of the precious metal, for which shreds of
gilded parchment cut up into narrow flat strips are substituted, and
woven with the silk. This, when fresh, must have looked very bright,
and have given the web all the appearance of those favourite stuffs
called here in England “tissues,” of which we have already spoken, p.
xxiii.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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