Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Thames Valley (England)
Although Castle Eaton has now no castle, and not even the discoverable
site of one, here was formerly situated a stronghold of the Zouches. It
is a very quiet village, of a purely agricultural type, and generally
littered with straw and fragments of hay. Here the Thames was until
quite recent years crossed by a most delightful old bridge, that looked
like the ruins of some very ancient structure whose arches had been
broken down and the remaining piers crossed by a makeshift affair of
white-painted timber. “Makeshift” is perhaps hardly the word to be
properly used here, for it seems to indicate a temporary contrivance; and
this bridge, if not designed in keeping with the huge, sturdy, shapeless
stone and rubble piers, was at any rate sufficiently substantial to have
existed for many generations, and to have lasted for many yet to come.
Alas that we should have to write of all this in the past tense! But it
is so. Twenty years ago, when the present writer paid his first visit to
Castle Eaton, the old bridge was all that has just been described—and
more; for no pen may write, nor tongue tell, of the beauty of that old,
time-worn yet not decrepit, bridge, that carried across the Thames a
road of no great traffic, and would have continued still safely to carry
it for an indefinite period. It was one of the expected delights of
revisiting the Upper Thames, to renew acquaintance with this bridge,
sketched years before; and it was with a bitter but unavailing regret
and a futile anger that, coming to the well-remembered spot, it was seen
to have been wantonly demolished, and its place taken by a hideous,
low-pitched iron girder bridge, worthy only of a railway company; and so
little likely to be permanent that it is observed to be already breaking
into rusty scales and scabs beneath its hideous red paint. The ancient
elms that once formed a gracious background to the old bridge stand as
of old beside the river bank; but the old bridge itself lies, a heap of
stones that the destroyers were too lazy to remove, close by, on the
spot on which they were first flung. No description, it has been said,
can hope to convey the beauty of Castle Eaton Bridge, for the old stone
piers were hung with wild growths, and spangled and stained with mosses
and lichens. A sketch of one end of it may serve; but it once formed the
subject of a painting by Ernest Waterlow, and in that medium at least,
its hoary charm has been preserved. Let a photograph of its existing
successor be here the all-too-shameful evidence of the wicked ways of the
Thames Conservancy with this once delightful spot in particular, and with
such spots in general. We cannot frame to use language too strong for a
crime so heinous against the picturesque.
[Illustration: CASTLE EATON CHURCH: SHOWING SANCTUS-BELL TURRET.]
[Illustration: THE THAMES AND SEVERN CANAL, NEAR KEMPSFORD.]
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