The Ainu group at the Saint Louis ExpositionStarr, Frederick
History
The Ainu group at the Saint Louis Exposition
Starr, Frederick
Ainu; Louisiana Purchase Exposition (1904 : Saint Louis, Mo.)
We had planned to photograph during the afternoon but it snowed
heavily—as it did every afternoon, while we were in the villages—so
we visited from house to house and then waited at the inn, for
those who, at Mr. Batchelor’s suggestion, brought in wares and
treasures for sale. As these articles were everywhere practically
the same, we may as well describe them once for all in connection
with Piratori. For a long time back, as shown by old pictures, the
Ainu dress has been much like that of their Japanese neighbors.
There are, however, some articles of dress that are truly Ainu and
even when Japanese stuffs and patterns are used the decoration may
be characteristic. The women make a coarse, brown, thread, from
elm-bark fibre, which is called _attus_. This they weave, using a
simple loom, into a strong and durable cloth, which, however, becomes
brittle if too dry. This may be woven solidly in the natural color,
or stripes of blue, (black or white,) threads may be woven into
it. From such cloth, single piece garments, much like the Japanese
_kimono_, with short sleeves tapering at the end, are made for both
men and women; there is little, if any real, difference in form in
those for the two sexes and both are folded and held in position, by
a band at the waist, in the same way. Upon these garments, whether
made of _attus_ cloth or of Japanese cottons, the women embroider
elaborate patterns in colored threads. On the whole the garments for
men are more ornamented than those for women. The patterns are said
to differ somewhat from district to district. The designs consist
of curious combinations of straight lines and graceful curves. In
their irregular forms and symmetrical arrangements, one would hardly
think that original animal designs might be hidden. There is no
question, however, that some of these apparently meaningless, simply
fanciful, designs are conventionalizations of the bear’s head and
it is possible that all of them might, by careful study, be traced
back to some such origin. Both men and women wear leggings wrapped
about the leg from the knee down, which are made of _attus_, or of
Japanese blue stuffs, and are often decorated with the curved-line
embroideries. Around the neck, women wear a closely-fitting, narrow
band of velvet, with a little flap at the middle; upon this flap,
which hangs in front when the band is adjusted, is a round piece of
silver or german silver upon which an ornamental design is engraved.
Both sexes wear earrings, but the old men seem particularly fond of
great hoop-earrings, two inches or more across, which are sometimes
of silver but more likely of some cheaper material. Women delight in
necklaces and often carry several pounds of large beads around the
neck; these beads are rarely of bright glass, being generally of dull
colors and of some porcelanous material. We had supposed these beads
to be of Japanese origin but are told that most of them came from
Manchuria.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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