Commercial Travellers.—Sparrow Hills.—Church of the Saviour.—Simonoff Monastery.—Novo-Devichi Convent.—The Moskva.—A Holiday.—Napoleon’s March.—Borodino.—Evacuation of Moscow.—French Enthusiasm.—Triumphal Entry.—Surprise.—Incendiarism.—Return of the French.—Horrors of the March.—Russian Barbarism.—Public Kissing.—From Moscow to St. Petersburg.—Fussy Ladies.—Klin.—Dinner.—Tver.—Beggars.—Night without Darkness.—The Fussy Ladies again.—Sunrise.—Marriage Customs 359 CHAPTER XXXI. FINLAND. Americans.—Cronstadt.—Fortifications.—Vessels.—Smoking.—Wyborg.— Saw-mills.—Channel.—Ruined Tower.—Submission of Finland.—Religion.— Government.—Harvests.—Famines.—Army.—Wages.—Fens.—Lakes and Islands.— Drosky.—Huge Stones.—Excursion.—Eden in the North.—Serpent in the Garden.—Long Bills.—Attentions paid Strangers.—A Finnish Lady.— Fishermen.—A Killing Man.—Gulf of Finland.—Fredericksham.—Sclava.—Hard Case.—Social Customs 371 CHAPTER XXXII. Finland (_continued_). Helsingfors.—Sweaborg.—Fortified Islands.—Society House.—Ducal Palace.— Finnish Gentlemen.—Senate House.—University.—Observatory.—Library.— Literature.—Kalewala.—Schiller and Shakespeare.—Language.—Congress.— Coats of Arms.—Botanical Garden.—House of Refreshment.—Health Establishment.—Mineral Fountain.—Rocky Islands.—Fishing.—Peasantry.— Abo.—Hotel.—Good Manners.—Castle.—Cathedral.—Tombs.—Conflagration.— Carriole.—Kibitka.—Bondkara.—Finns 383 CHAPTER XXXIII. SWEDEN. Harbor of Abo.—Swedish Customs.—Eating and Drinking.—Climate.—The Baltic.—Stockholm.—Porters.—Hotel Rydburg.—Pleasant Quarters.— Scandinavia.—Odin.—Sagas.—Christianity.—Lutheran Religion.—King.— Congress.—Hospital.—Physicians.—Clergymen.—Education.—Religious Toleration.—The Press.—Cost of Living.—Vice.—The Riddarholm’s Kyrkan.— Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus.—Reformation.—Royal Palace.—Picture Gallery.—Library.—Codex Aureus.—King of Sweden.—Mimic War.—Standing Army.—Order.—Thieves 394 CHAPTER XXXIV. Sweden (_continued_).