The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Philip II. came to the throne of Spain in 1556, less than twenty years
before the massacre of St. Bartholomew’s day in France, and in the same
century with the Reformation led on by Luther. His history and his
character are familiar to the world. Cold, cruel, bigoted, intolerant,
morose, gloomy, superstitious, the grandson of a woman who was known by
the name of Crazy Jane, and who earned the title, the son of the great
Emperor of Germany, Charles V., who was also Charles I. of Spain, this
Philip II., thus descended and thus endowed, was less a king than a
monk, and in the cloister or the cell was more at home than on the
throne. He was the husband of Bloody Mary of England, and, like her,
verily thought to please God by persecuting the saints and mortifying
himself. Perhaps his queer grandmother had put the idea of a palace and
a monastery and a tomb into his head. Perhaps his father, in the gloomy
hours when he meditated retirement and abdication of his sovereignty,
inspired the son with this strange purpose. Or, more likely, the
conception with him was original, and as no monarch, before him or
since, had such a heart under the guide of such a head, it is only just
to give him all the credit of devising and achieving one of the most
stupendous follies and gigantic monuments that was ever executed by the
hands of men.
The Spaniards reckon the ESCORIAL as the eighth wonder of the world!
About twenty-five miles north of Madrid, in the midst of the dreariest
wilderness of barren, rocky, all but uninhabitable hills, a region where
no beauty of scenery cheers the eye, no silver river winds along through
fertile vales, no verdant slopes are covered with grazing herds, and no
forests with their cool shades invite the tired traveller or the weary
citizen to seek repose,—here, in the last of all places for such an
edifice, is placed the ESCORIAL, the largest and grandest edifice in
Spain, and the most remarkable building now standing on the earth. What
Egypt had when Karnak and Thebes were in their prime, what Babylon and
Nineveh knew in the days of their now buried glory, we have but faint
knowledge. This house covers a square of five hundred thousand feet! It
is about 750 feet long, and 600 feet wide. It is a royal palace. It is a
monastery. It is the sepulchre of the royal family of Spain. It is a
church; and in that church, the chapel of this strange house, there is
more wealth lavished on the pulpits and altars than on any other that I
have seen, in this or any other country. Yet all this is in a
wilderness, far away from cities and the abodes of men who might be
supposed to admire and enjoy such grandeur,—a temple in a desert, a
palace and a sepulchre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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