The poor Cobbler of Granada.—Spanish Rule of Living.—Xantippe.—Search for Gold.—Messenger Dove.—Dreams.—Landslip.—Fever cured.—Conversion.— The Watch Tower.—Magic Bell.—Parapanda Mountains.—Reign of Law.—Gift to the Duke of Wellington.—Bloody Pass.—Vega.—Water Gates.—The Last Sigh of the Moor.—His Mother’s Reproof.—Moorish Race.—Political Prisoners.—Birthplace of Eugenie.—The Generaliffe.—Ancient Tree.— Suspected Queen.—Women of Spain.—Sins of Climate 144 CHAPTER XIV. GRANADA. Troubadour and Gypsy Life.—Dwarf.—Horse.—Fair.—Physique of the gitanos.— Habits.—Habitations.—Moral Principle.—Chastity.—Swindling.— Superstition.—Fortune-tellers.—Credulity.—Trickery.—Parisian Spiritualist.—Gypsy Creed.—Musings.—Causes of Astonishment.—Paintings and Cathedrals.—Unworthy Ambition.—Silence in Church.—Cathedral of Granada.—Chapel Royal.—Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.—Tomb of Philip and Crazy Jane.—Obliging Priest.—Fees.—Leaving Granada.—Disguised Thief.—Seizure and Imprisonment.—Out of Granada 155 CHAPTER XV. GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE. Geneva.—Color of the Rhone.—Cæsar’s Wall.—Cathedral.—Calvin.—Lady Jane Grey.—Rousseau.—Voltaire.—Madame de Stael.—Byron.—Jura.—Mont Blanc.— Celebrities.—Coppet.—Ninon.—St. Protais.—Lisus.—Morges.—Grand Muveran.—Diablerets.—Mont Rosa.—Mont Blanc.—Lausanne.—St. Anne.—Sacred Rat.—Cathedral.—Convention of Reformers.—Gibbon.—Classic Ground.— Chillon.—Bonnivard.—Torture Chamber.—Hotel Byron.—Railroad.—Ice.—Swiss Valleys.—Freyburg.—Suspension Bridge.—Great Organ.—Cathedral.— Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness.—Berne.—Morat.—Burgundian Custom.—Public Bears.—Unfortunate Englishman.—Curious Clock.—Market Women.—Federal Palace.—Swiss Cantons.—Bernese Alps.—Thun.—Jungfrau 165 CHAPTER XVI. THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE. Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.— Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid Courage.—Cheap Suffering.—Modern Reformers.—Mount Pilatus.—Myths.—Lucerne.—Population.—St. Leger.— Service.—Crucifix.—A Devotee.—Mass.—Organ.—Cloisters.—Lake Lucerne.— Lion of Lucerne.—Dance of Death.—Striking Scenery.—Gersau.—Brunnen.— Bay of Uri.—Sir James Mackintosh.—Swiss Patriots.—Chapel of Tell.— Cascades.—Fluellen.—Altorf.—Captain Lott 186 CHAPTER XVII. THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.