The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.— Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.— Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot.—Hospitality.—Library.— College.—Monastic Life.—Adieu.—Pleasant Quarters.—Meals.—Hotel Life.— John Bull.—A Charming Couple.—Americans.—A National Feature.—Slang.— Language.—Manners.—An Elegant Lady.—Selfishness.—French and Swiss Railroads.—Improvements.—Accidents.—Accommodations 200 CHAPTER XVIII. CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS. Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.— Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.— Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’s Song.—Bridal Custom.—Athletic Sports.—Democracy.—Assembly.—Office Seekers.—Council.—Roads.— Taxation.—Schools.—Foreign Pupils.—Pedestrians.—Moral Culture.— Treatment of Women.—Cows.—Farm Work.—Manufactures.—Mechanics.—God’s Acre.—Graves.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Simplicity.—Lonely Burial.— Unpleasing Custom.—Costumes.—The Upper Classes.—Refinement and Culture.—Manners.—Patriotism.—A Challenge 212 CHAPTER XIX. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE. A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.— Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.— Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Long Sledge-ride.—Princess of Mecklenburg.—Clerical Postman.—Whey-cure.—Grape-cure.—Rest.— Rheingraffenstein.—Ebernburg.—Relics of Reformers.—French Cannon Balls.—The Bingen of Poetry.—The Real Bingen.—Bishop Hatto’s Tower.— Maüse-thurme.—Southey.—Ehrenfels.—Rudesheimer Vineyards.—Wine-making.— Shallow Soil.—Johannisberg Vineyard.—The Rhine.—Mayence.—Printing.— Guttenberg’s Statue.—Cathedral 232 CHAPTER XX. PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.— Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crowd.—Order and Devotion.— Sultan and Suite.—Stolidity.—Priests and Women.—A Crush.—Pageant opened.—Procession.—The Relics.—Puseyite Priest.—On the Road to Rome.— Superstition.—Pictures.—Virgin’s Garment.—Modern Style.—Holy Shirt.— Other Relics.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—Waters.—Fountain.—Music.—Invalids.— Kurhaus.—Social Ease.—Baths.—Sulphur Water.—Antiquities.—Tower of Granus.—Statue of Charlemagne.—Bust and Skull 245 CHAPTER XXI. FRANKFORT.