Josias Simler was a mountaineer of a very different type. To him
belongs the credit of compiling the first treatise on the art of Alpine
travel. Though he introduces no personal reminiscences, his work is so
free from current superstition that he must have been something of a
climber; but, though a climber, he did not share Gesner’s enthusiasm
for the hills. For, though he seems to have crossed glacier passes,
whereas Gesner confined himself to the lower mountains, yet the note
of enthusiasm is lacking. His horror of narrow paths, bordering on
precipices, is typical of the age; and if he ventured across a pass he
must have done so in the way of business. There is, as we have already
pointed out, a marked difference between passes and mountains. A
merchant with a holy horror of mountains may be forced to cross a pass
in the way of business, but a man will only climb a mountain for the
fun of the thing. It is clear that Simler could only see in mountains
a sense of inconvenient barriers to commerce, but as a practical man
he set out to codify the existing knowledge. Gesner’s mountain work
is subjective; it is the literature of emotion; he is less concerned
with the mountain in itself, than with the mountain as it strikes the
individual observer. Simler, on the other hand, is the forerunner of
the objective school. He must delight those who postulate that all
Alpine literature should be the record of positive facts. The personal
note is utterly lacking. Like Gesner, he was a professor at Zürich.
Unlike Gesner, he was an embodiment of the academic tradition that is
more concerned with fact than with emotion. None the less, his work
was a very valuable contribution, as it summarised existing knowledge
on the art of mountain travel. His information is singularly free from
error. He seems to have understood the use of the rope, alpenstocks,
crampons, dark spectacles, and the use of paper as a protection
against cold. It is strange that crampons, which were used in Simler’s
days, were only reintroduced into general practice within the last
decades, whilst the uncanny warmth of paper is still unknown to many
mountaineers. His description of glacier perils, due to concealed
crevasses, is accurate, and his analysis of avalanches contains much
that is true. We are left with the conviction that snow- and ice-craft
is an old science, though originally applied by merchants rather than
pure explorers.
We quoted Simler, in the first chapter, in support of our contention
that foreigners came in great numbers to see and rejoice in the beauty
of the Alps. But, though Simler proves that passes were often crossed
in the way of business, and that mountains were often visited in search
of beauty, he himself was no mountain lover.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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