De Luc was born at Geneva, in 1727. His father was a watchmaker, but De
Luc’s life was cast on more ambitious lines. He began as a diplomatist,
but gravitated insensibly to science. He invented the hygrometer, and
was elected a member of the Royal Societies of London, Dublin, and
Göttingen. Charlotte, the wife of George III, appointed him her reader;
and he died at Windsor, having attained the ripe age of ninety. He was
a scientific, rather than a sentimental, mountaineer; his principal
occupation was to discover the temperature at which water would boil at
various altitudes. His chief claim to notice is that he made the first
ascent of the Buet.
The Buet is familiar to all who know Chamounix. It rises to the height
of 10,291 feet. Its summit is a broad plateau, glacier-capped. Those
who have travelled to Italy by the Simplon may, perhaps, recall the
broad-topped mountain that seems to block up the western end of the
Rhone valley, for the Buet is a conspicuous feature on the line,
between Sion and Brigue. It is not a difficult mountain, in the modern
sense of the term; but, to climbers who knew little of the nature of
snow and glacier, it must have presented quite a formidable appearance.
De Luc made several attempts before he was finally successful on
September 22, 1770. His description of the view from the summit is a
fine piece of writing. Familiarity had not staled the glory of such
moments; and men might still write, as they felt, without fear that
their readers would be bored by emotions that had lost their novelty.
Before leaving, De Luc observed that the party were standing on
a cornice. A cornice is a crest of windblown snow overhanging a
precipice. As the crest often appears perfectly continuous with the
snow on solid foundation, cornices have been responsible for many
fatal accidents. De Luc’s party naturally beat a hurried retreat; but
“having gathered, by reflection, that the addition of our own weight
to this prodigious mass which had supported itself for ages counted
for absolutely nothing, and could not possibly break it loose, we
laid aside our fears and went back to the terrible terrace.” A little
science is a dangerous thing; and it was a mere chance that the first
ascent of the Buet is not notorious for a terrible accident. It makes
one’s blood run cold to read of the calm contempt with which De Luc
treated the cornice. Each member of the party took it in turn to
advance to the edge and look over on to the cliff below supported as to
his coattails by the rest of the party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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