He spent a second night on the mountain, which was, on the whole,
more comfortable than the first, as he passed it on the rocks of the
Montagne de la Côte. Before he returned home, Balmat planned a way
to the summit. And now comes the most amazing part of the story. He
had no sooner returned home than he met three men starting off for
the mountain. A modern mountaineer, who had spent two nights, alone,
high up on Mont Blanc, would consider himself lucky to reach Chamounix
alive; once there, he would go straight to bed for some twenty-four
hours. But Balmat was built of iron. He calmly proposed to accompany
his friends; and, having changed his stockings, he started out again
for the great mountain, on which he had spent the previous two nights.
The party consisted of François Paccard, Joseph Carrier, and Jean
Michel Tournier. They slept on the mountain; and next morning they
were joined by two other guides, Pierre Balmat and Marie Couttet. They
did not get very far, and soon turned back--all save Balmat. Balmat,
who seems to have positively enjoyed his nights on the glacier, stayed
behind.
“I laid my knapsack on the snow, drew my handkerchief over my face
like a curtain, and made the best preparations that I could for
passing a night like the previous one. However, as I was about two
thousand feet higher, the cold was more intense; a fine powdery
snow froze me; I felt a heaviness and an irresistible desire to
sleep; thoughts, sad as death, came into my mind, and I knew well
that these sad thoughts and this desire to sleep were a bad sign,
and that if I had the misfortune to close my eyes I should never
open them again. From the place where I was, I saw, ten thousand
feet below me, the lights of Chamounix, where my comrades were warm
and tranquil by their firesides or in their beds. I said to myself:
‘Perhaps there is not a man among them who gives a thought to me.
Or, if there is one of them who thinks of Balmat, no doubt he pokes
his fire into a blaze, or draws his blanket over his ears, saying,
‘That ass of a Jacques is wearing out his shoe leather. Courage,
Balmat!’”
Balmat may have been a braggart, but it is sometimes forgotten by his
critics that he had something to brag about. Even if he had never
climbed Mont Blanc, this achievement would have gone down to history
as perhaps the boldest of all Alpine adventures. To sleep one night,
alone, above the snow line is a misfortune that has befallen many
climbers. Some have died, and others have returned, thankful. One may
safely say that no man has started out for the same peak, and willingly
spent a third night under even worse conditions than the first. Three
nights out of four in all. We are charitably assuming that this
part of Balmat’s story is true. There is at least no evidence to the
contrary.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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