Four years after the Glockner had been climbed, the giant of Tirol and
the Eastern Alps was overcome. The conquest of the Ortler was due to a
romantic fancy of Archduke John. Just as Charles VII of France deputed
his Chamberlain to climb Mont Aiguille, so the Archduke (who, by the
way, was the son of the Emperor Leopold II, and brother of Francis
II, last of the Holy Roman emperors) deputed Gebhard, a member of his
suite, to climb the Ortler. Gebhard made several attempts without
success. Finally, a chamois hunter of the Passeierthal, by name Joseph
Pichler, introduced himself to Gebhard, and made the ascent from Trafoi
on September 28, 1804. Next year Gebhard himself reached the summit,
and took a reading of the height by a barometer. The result showed
that the Ortler was higher than the Glockner--a discovery which caused
great joy. Its actual height is, as a matter of fact, 12,802 feet. But
the ascent of the Ortler was long in achieving the popularity that it
deserved. Whereas the Glockner was climbed about seventy times before
1860, the Ortler was only climbed twice between Gebhard’s ascent and
the ascent by the Brothers Buxton and Mr. Tuckett, in 1864. Archduke
John, who inspired the first ascent, made an unsuccessful attempt (this
time in person) on the Gross Venediger, another great Tyrolese peak. He
was defeated, and the mountain was not finally vanquished till 1841.
The scene now changes to the Oberland. Nothing much had been
accomplished in the Oberland before the opening years of the nineteenth
century. A few passes, the Petersgrat, Oberaarjoch, Tschingel, and
Gauli, had been crossed; but the only snow peaks whose ascent was
undoubtedly accomplished were the Handgendgletscherhorn (10,806 feet)
and a peak whose identification is difficult. These were climbed in
1788 by a man called Müller, who was engaged in surveying for Weiss.
His map was a very brilliant achievement, considering the date at
which it appeared. The expenses had been defrayed by a rich merchant
of Aarau, Johann Rudolph Meyer, whose sons were destined to play
an important part in Alpine exploration. J. R. Meyer had climbed
the Titlis, and one of his sons made one of the first glacier pass
expeditions in the Oberland, crossing the Tschingel in 1790.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account