J. R. Meyer’s two sons, Johann Rudolph the second and Hieronymus,
were responsible for some of the finest pioneer work in the story of
mountaineering. In 1811 they made the first crossing of the Beich
pass, the Lötschenlücke, and the first ascent of the Jungfrau. As was
inevitable, their story was disbelieved. To dispel all doubt, another
expedition was undertaken in the following year. On this expedition
the leaders were Rudolph and Gottlieb Meyer, sons of J. R. Meyer the
second (the conqueror of the Jungfrau), and grandsons of J. R. Meyer
the first. The two Meyers separated after crossing the Oberaarjoch.
Gottlieb crossed the Grünhornlücke, and bivouacked near the site of
the present Concordia Inn. Rudolph made his classical attempt on the
Finsteraarhorn, and rejoined Gottlieb. Next day Gottlieb made the
second ascent of the Jungfrau and Rudolph forced the first indisputable
crossing of the Strahlegg pass from the Unteraar glacier to Grindelwald.
To return to Rudolph’s famous attempt on the Finsteraarhorn. Rudolph,
as we have seen, separated from his brother Gottlieb near the
Oberaarjoch. Rudolph, who was only twenty-one at the time, took with
him two Valaisian hunters, by name Alois Volker and Joseph Bortis, a
Melchthal “porter,” Arnold Abbühl, and a Hasle man. Abbühl was not
a porter as we understand the word, but a _knecht_, or servant, of
a small inn. He played the leading part in this climb. The party
bivouacked on the depression known as the Rothhornsattel, and left
it next morning when the sun had already struck the higher summits,
probably about 5 a.m. They descended to the Studerfirn, and shortly
before reaching the Ober Studerjoch started to climb the great eastern
face of the Finsteraarhorn. After six hours, they reached the crest of
the ridge. Meyer could go no further, and remained where he was; while
the guides proceeded and, according to the accounts which have come
down to us, reached the summit.
Captain Farrar has summed up all the available evidence in _The Alpine
Journal_ for August 1913. The first climber who attempted to repeat
the ascent was the well-known scientist Hugi. He was led by the same
Arnold Abbühl, who, as already stated, took a prominent part in Meyer’s
expedition. Abbühl, however, not only failed to identify the highest
peak from the Rothhornsattel, but, on being pressed, admitted that he
had never reached the summit at all. In 1830, Hugi published these
facts and Meyer, indignant at the implied challenge to his veracity,
promised to produce further testimony. But there the matter dropped.
Captain Farrar summarises the situation with convincing thoroughness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account