The first complete ascent of the Finsteraarhorn was made on August
10, 1829, by Hugi’s two guides, Jakob Leuthold and Joh. Wahren. Hugi
remained behind, 200 feet below the summit. The Hugisattel still
commemorates a pioneer of this great peak.
So much for the Meyers. They deserve a high place in the history of
exploration. “It has often seemed to me,” writes Captain Farrar, “that
the craft of mountaineering, and even more the art of mountaineering
description, distinctly retrograded for over fifty years after these
great expeditions of the Meyers. It is not until the early ’sixties
that rocks of equal difficulty are again attacked. Even then--witness
Almer’s opinion as to the inaccessibility of the Matterhorn--men had
not yet learned the axiom, which Alexander Burgener was the first,
certainly by practice rather than by explicit enunciation, to lay
down, viz. that the practicability of rocks is only decided by actual
contact. Meyer’s guides had a glimmering of this. It is again not until
the ’sixties that Meyer’s calm yet vivid descriptions of actualities
are surpassed by those brilliant articles of Stephen, of Moore, of
Tuckett, and by Whymper’s great ‘Scrambles’ that are the glory of
English mountaineering.”
But perhaps the greatest name associated with this period is that
of the great scientist, Agassiz. Agassiz is a striking example of
the possibilities of courage and a lively faith. He never had any
money; and yet he invariably lived as if he possessed a comfortable
competence. “I have no time for making money,” is one of his sayings
that have become famous. He was a native of Orbe, a beautiful town in
the Jura. His father was a pastor, and the young Agassiz was intended
for the medical profession. He took the medical degree, but remained
steadfast in his determination to become, as he told his father, “the
first naturalist of his time.” Humboldt and Cuvier soon discovered his
powers; in due time he became a professor at Neuchâtel. He married
on eighty louis a year; but money difficulties never depressed him.
As a boy of twenty, earning the princely sum of fifty pounds a year,
he maintained a secretary in his employment, a luxury which he never
denied himself. Usually he maintained two or three. At Neuchâtel,
his income eventually increased to £125 a year. On this, he kept up
an academy of natural history, a museum, a staff of secretaries and
assistants, a lithographic and printing plant, and a wife. His wife,
by the way, was a German lady; and it is not surprising that her
chief quarrel with life was a lack of money for household expenses.
The naturalist, who had no time for making money, spent what little
he had on the necessities of his existence, such as printing presses
and secretaries, and left the luxuries of the larder to take care of
themselves. His family helped him with loans, “at first,” we are told,
“with pleasure, but afterwards with some reluctance.” Humboldt also
advanced small sums.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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