“The only man he really loved and had use for was the man who could
bring him facts. To see facts, not to argue or _raisonniren_ was
what life meant for him; and I think he often positively loathed
the ratiocinating type of mind. ‘Mr. Blank, you are totally
uneducated,’ I heard him say once to a student, who had propounded
to him some glittering theoretic generality. And on a similar
occasion, he gave an admonition that must have sunk deep into the
heart of him to whom it was addressed. ‘Mr. X, some people perhaps
now consider you are a bright young man; but when you are fifty
years old, if they ever speak of you then, what they will say will
be this: “That Mr. X--oh yes, I know him; he used to be a very
bright young man.”’ Happy is the conceited youth who at the proper
moment receives such salutary cold-water therapeutics as this, from
one who in other respects is a kind friend.”
So much for Agassiz. It only remains to add that his companions were
responsible for some fine mountaineering. During these years the three
peaks of the Wetterhorn were climbed, and Desor was concerned in two
of these successful expeditions. A far finer expedition was his ascent
of the Lauteraarhorn, by Desor in 1842. This peak is connected with
the Schreckhorn by a difficult ridge, and is a worthy rival to that
well-known summit. There were a few other virgin climbs in this period,
but the great age of Alpine conquest had scarcely begun.
The connecting link between Agassiz and modern mountaineering is
supplied by Gottlieb Studer, who was born in 1804, and died in 1890.
His serious climbing began in 1823, and continued for sixty years. He
made a number of new ascents, and reopened scores of passes, only
known to natives. Most mountaineers know the careful and beautiful
panoramas which are the work of his pencil. He drew no less than seven
hundred of these. His great work, _Ueber Eis und Schnee_, a history
of Swiss climbing, is an invaluable authority to which most of his
successors in this field are indebted.
The careful reader will notice the comparative absence of the English
in the climbs which we have so far described. The coming of the English
deserves a chapter to itself.
CHAPTER VII
THE COMING OF THE ENGLISH
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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