Mountaineering, as a sport, is so often treated as an invention of
Englishmen, that the real facts of its origin are unconsciously
disguised. A commonplace error of the textbooks is to date sporting
mountaineering from Mr. Justice Wills’s famous ascent of the Wetterhorn
in 1854. The Wetterhorn has three peaks, and Mr. Justice Wills made the
ascent of the summit which is usually climbed from Grindelwald. This
peak, the Hasle Jungfrau, is the most difficult of the group but it is
not the highest. In those early days, first ascents were not recorded
with the punctuality and thoroughness that prevails to-day; and a large
circle of mountaineers gave Mr. Justice Wills the credit of making the
first ascent of the Hasle Jungfrau, or at least the first ascent from
Grindelwald. Curiously enough, the climb, which is supposed to herald
sporting mountaineering, was only the second ascent of the Grindelwald
route to the summit of a peak which had already been climbed four
times. The facts are as follows: Desor’s guides climbed the Hasle
Jungfrau in 1844, and Desor himself followed a few days after. Three
months before Wills’s ascent, the peak was twice climbed by an early
English pioneer, Mr. Blackwell. Blackwell’s first ascent was by the
Rosenlaui route, which Desor had followed, and his second, by the
Grindelwald route, chosen by Mr. Wills. On the last occasion, he was
beaten by a storm within about ten feet of the top, ten feet which he
had climbed on the previous occasion. He planted a flag just under the
final cornice; and we must give him the credit of the pioneer ascent
from Grindelwald. Mr. Wills never heard of these four ascents, and
believed that the peak was still virgin when he ascended it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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