Abroad, mountaineering has developed very rapidly since the ’sixties.
We have seen that English climbers, first in the field, secured a large
share of unconquered peaks; but once continental climbers had taken up
the new sport, our earlier start was seriously challenged. The Swiss,
Austrian, and German have one great advantage. They are much nearer
the Alps; and mountaineering in these countries is, as a result, a
thoroughly democratic sport. The foreign Alpine Clubs number thousands
of members. The German-Austrian Alpine Club has alone nearly ninety
thousand members. There is no qualification, social or mountaineering.
These great national clubs have a small subscription; and with the
large funds at their disposal they are able to build club-huts in
the mountains, and excellent meeting places in the great towns,
where members can find an Alpine library, maps, and other sources of
information. They secure many useful concessions, such as reduced fares
for their members on Alpine railways. Mountaineering naturally becomes
a democratic sport in mountainous countries, because the mountains are
accessible. The very fact that a return ticket to the Alps is a serious
item must prevent Alpine climbing from becoming the sport of more
than a few of our countrymen. At the same time, we have an excellent
native playground in Wales and Cumberland, which has made it possible
for young men to learn the craft before they could afford a regular
climbing holiday in the Alps. Beside the great national clubs of the
Continent, there are a number of vigorous university clubs scattered
through these countries. Of these, the Akademischer Alpine clubs at
Zürich and Munich are, perhaps, the most famous. These clubs consist of
young men reading at the Polytechnic or University. They have as high a
mountaineering qualification as any existing Alpine clubs. They attach
importance to the capacity to lead a guideless party rather than to
the bare fact that a man has climbed so many peaks. Each candidate is
taken on a series of climbs by members of the club, who report to the
committee on his general knowledge of snow and rock conditions, and his
fitness, whether in respect of courage or endurance for arduous work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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